March 2013
Somewhere along the way, Salsa Brava owner-chef John Conley developed an obsession for wood-fired fare. A decade ago, he built an Alan Scott artisan brick oven in his backyard, and two years ago, he bought a mobile, wood-fired oven. Conley says a plethora of recipe experimentation ensued. And with that, he ventured into the Italian restaurant business with the opening of Fat Olives in November 2012. As you might have guessed, the hallmark of Conley’s second successful eatery on Route 66 is the oven.
“The Valoriani oven is made in Naples, Italy by the Valoriani family,” Conley said. “It’s a workhorse; it’s a rocket ship. Regions in Italy have their own approach to wood-fired cuisine in the same way barbecue is unique to regions in the U.S.”
Fat Olives focuses on the Neapolitan traditions of thin-crusted pizzas, pasta, roasted vegetables and seafood. Conley runs a scratch kitchen and partners with local growers like Whipstone Farms, Rabbit Run, Wong’s and Crooked Sky farms to offer the finest organic produce. And while Conley honors Italian standards, sensational combinations evolve, like his latest favorite, Kenai Pizza. It holds ricotta, pecorino Romano, smoked salmon and house-made dill cream sauce. “There are no rules in the kitchen,” he said. “It’s a playground back there.”
So, can an entire kitchen revolve around a domed, red-brick oven? Well, just as an Italian village coordinates their cooking around a central oven, Fat Olives’ fire adds flavor to every dish. As an antipasti, consider the Wood-Roasted Vegetable Platter whose meaty lentils grace baby spinach surrounded by a seasonal throng: Brussel sprouts, asparagus, butternut squash, cauliflower, red pepper, caramelized onion and crimini mushrooms. All dishes bear the savory char of heat and glisten with extra-virgin olive oil plus a sparkle of sea salt.
Or try the Stracciatella for a creamy indulgence. The house-made mozzarella—a 10-step process—is stalled at stage three and mixed with sweet cream plus ricotta and finished with Calabrian chile oil. The mixture is served on crostini with arugula, extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic reduction, sea salt and cracked pepper. Oh, when ordering, definitely add the prosciutto, aged for 14 months to pink, slivered perfection.
Fat Olives’ Bruschetta Boards offer a classic option and thrill of new tastes. Mix it up for fun. Go basic, and then, add in Roasted Tomato with mozzarella, pesto and a fresh basil chiffonade, lending a sweet, ripe, intense bite. Or angle for the fresh, Alaskan, house-smoked salmon served up with pesto, crispy cucumber, red onion and creamy dill. All bruschetta toppings arrive on farmhouse bread that has a crunch-crust and soft-crumb center.
Order a pizza and share it around the table. The beloved standard is the Margherita dressed in tomato sauce with chunks of mozzarella topped by fresh basil. Or step out with Adovado whose zingy pork meets its match in caramelized Maui onions. Crust matters and Fat Olives went through 300 recipe trials to find perfection.
“We use Caputo 00 flour, produced in Italy for generations by the Caputo family,” Conley said. “It’s organic, expensive, low in protein, and so it’s accessible to the gluten-sensitive. The pizzas are light, offering a healthy alternative with a salad at 625 calories when shared by two people.”
So, there’s room for dessert. The Dolce Calzone folds dough over chocolate hazelnut filling, served up as two massive slices drizzled with chocolate and candied walnuts plus a lava flow of sweet, whipped cream. It will curl the toes in delight.
Fat Olives’ ambience reflects Tuscany meets Industrial meets Grand Canyon—represented in in paintings by Bruce Aiken. For events, book the Chef’s Room, once a Basque sheepherder’s home, with a fireplace and 100-year old oak-plank farm table. Or have a sunny sit amongst the herb garden in the Wine Yard. In any case, stop in for Happy Hour where the charcuterie tempts, or a pizza and glass of house wine from a strong Italian list can be had for $10.
The Salsa Brava proprietor has, for years, managed to bring a taste and vibe of Mexico to the east side with his signature restaurant. Now, he lets locals and visitors alike bask in the flavors and aura of Italy, all in the same block. NAMLM Gail G. Collins
Check out the menu and learn more at: wwwfatolivesflagstaff.com