December 2013
“Tuna drives a sushi bar. Without it, you’ve got nothing,” said Steve Scully, owner of Karma Sushi Bar Grill. He would know. Scully logged 15 years in the food business before opening Karma seven years ago. While Scully was schooled in finer European cuisine, he is a Jersey guy. He also headed north to work in restaurants in Cape Cod, which he explained means he knows good flavors and good seafood. And when Scully aimed to position his sushi spot, he worked with Tokyo chefs. He said, “Their training has more guts to it.”
Karma recently upgraded its look and function, especially the bar area. On the wall behind the bar, three-dimensional waves, created with sustainable Cali-Bamboo, crest next to a glowing orb. The scene’s rope lighting can change color, giving the impression of a sunset or moonrise. The design is based on a prominent print from a set of 19th century Japanese woodcuts by Hakusai called The Great Wave. Scully loved the iconic symbol. A steel frame holds the massive structure, which was built on site with layers of bamboo panels. In revamping the horseshoe-shaped area, Scully added two feet of workspace and reformatted the footprint for premium purpose behind the bar. The bar top is Samsung quartz crystal composition whose metallic flecks in ebony simulate Flagstaff’s night sky. The concept is effective and stunning.
“We strive to do it better and more efficiently, and our management team is dedicated,” Scully said. “But the important thing in a sushi bar is to do the right things with the right fish.” Karma buys its tuna mainly from Japanese Food Corporation International who delivers the goods every Thursday morning. This includes 25-35 pounds of yellowfin tuna. Karma refuses to serve bluefin, due to overfishing. There is also salmon, Suzuki sea bass and more, which is prepped for the week ahead.
Ready to order? Start with the goyza dumplings, pork or spinach-wrapped. The vegetable option is filled with carrots, mushrooms and celery. Now we can move on to sushi rolls. There are signature, standard and silly choices, such as the spider roll. The soft shell crab’s legs are coated in potato starch and perched on an eel sauce web. The barracuda was chef-inspired, featuring tuna, avocado and snow crab, topped with shaved cucumber and sweet vinegar. It’s a light, clean, spicy roll. Karma’s namesake roll incorporates tempura shrimp, cream cheese and tobiko (flying fish eggs), topped with freshwater eel, avocado, sweet sauce and creamy wasabi for a smoky, earthy mouthful. A note about Karma’s wasabi—it is made from pickled root, giving it a dynamic, chunky texture that is fresh with tempered heat. The autumn roll, despite its name, is available year round. Mixing tempura sweet potato, maguro tuna, avocado, cream cheese and a scattering of honey ponzu and scallions, it is a flamboyant wedge.
Karma’s maguro tuna is served fanned on the plate to represent Mount Fuji. The fish is ruby red, translucent and served over shredded daikon, offering a peppery bite to the tender fillets. Karma is also keen to appeal to the non-sushi crowd with honest offerings done right. Scully began with an upscale burger, and now, serves a New York strip. The aged, center signature cut comes with sides such as tempura asparagus and house-mashed potatoes with nutty, browned butter. But if it’s traditional ramen you crave, the chashu pork is rolled, broiled and sliced, boasting charred edges atop a bowl of tangled noodles swimming in creamy broth.
A good meal is matched by a good drink. Saki and tea are first in line. Karma serves many tea flavors and an organic green tea called gyokuro, or “pearl dew.” Billed as the finest on the planet and grown in famed tea gardens near Kyoto, it makes a cold-weather pick-me-up. Saki is brewed like beer, fermented and pasteurized, and Karma sells many choices. Kikusui, in a blue, hammered bottle, is elegant and well-balanced, while Karma sells more sayuri, or “small lily,” than any restaurant in the country.
For a quick, healthy lunch, order a hot or cold Bento box. The Japanese divided box is outfitted with an entrée, soup, salad, four-piece roll and vegetables.
It is easy to taste why, for three years running, Karma has received the Arizona Daily Sun award for Flagstaff’s Best Sushi as well as Best Japanese Food recently. Scully is uniquely humbled by the latter, as it peripheral on the menu, but feels quality and presentation are a winning combination.
NAMLM Gail G. Collins
To learn more: Visit karmaflagstaff.com