August 2013
When Tom and Amanda Wilson bought Pasto Cucina Italiana in 2007, they employed a vision of “Old World flavors with a modern flourish.” They achieved that goal in the urban, glass-fronted store on Aspen as wells as with their crossover cuisine. Architectural amenities, like the copper ceiling, exposed brick, hardwood floors and wrought iron, give an Italian feel to a meal eaten at a window table within view of our own historic piazza—Heritage Square. And Pasto boosted the palate presentation with traditional fare that channels a contemporary vibe.
Head chef Michael Long, has spent 20 years in upscale Northern Arizonan kitchens and summed up Pasto’s gastronomy as, “Friendly, familiar dishes with flair. Our goal is to create a memory for the guest.” On the menu, a memory may begin at the intersection of comfort meets inspiration in a typical dish, such as eggplant parmesan. At Pasto, the recipe morphs into house made ravioli, baked with four cheeses and vodka sauce and served with grilled asparagus.
Small courses, seasonal offerings, robust stews and lighter fare, plus vegetarian or meat lover options, can please every diner at the table. The moderately priced selections encourage a party to share plates around community-style. The presentation at Pasto is artistry without artifice, and an attentive wait staff knows when to stand back and let the meal linger.
As a standard starter, the bruschetta presents a hands-on experience. Spread the gorgonzola and creamy garlic heart like butter before heaping on the roasted peppers in balsamic and extra virgin olive oil for an interactive indulgence. Or as Long said, “You eat with all five senses … go ahead and play with your food.” The arugula salad also kickstarts a meal. The unexpected earthiness of roasted beets play well with the greens’ peppery notes, topped by tempting pine nuts, goat cheese and house-cured black pepper bacon and drizzled with agro dolce blood orange vinaigrette. The plate becomes an artist’s palette of bold colors and tastes.
Pasto’s bacon and pork belly are examples of attentive hands in the kitchen which cure, grind, smoke and slice. The meatballs are a mix of ground veal, lamb and pork, creating a complimentary richness. All of the meats are natural and certified. The polenta is whole grist and tastes like corn—full flavor—and house made dressings, sauces and desserts showcase the food, not the cook. The Village Baker supplies the bread, yet many cheeses are imported from Italy. “We are accepting of any source that offers the best product,” Long said.
As it is summer, choose to dine under the aspens on Pasto’s patio. It is a hidden gem. The sheltered space can’t be seen by street traffic and provides guests with a lush oasis in downtown. Wrought iron tables with umbrellas are bordered by boxes of columbine, bleeding heart and blooming vines to create a primo patio.
For lunch, the salmon burger spices it up diavolo-style with clove and cumin. A brioche bun is slathered with caper mayo, and the whole is stacked with black pepper bacon, lettuce and tomato. With a refreshing wafer-sliced cucumber salad on the side, it’s an unpretentious, glorious nosh.
Pasta is the quintessential course for an Italian restaurant, and a house specialty is always a good option. Chicken cacciatora, or the “hunter’s wife’s chicken” as Long explained in translation, afforded the man fuel for the hunt. The ingredients explain why. Pappardelle—homemade, egg noodles—cradle hearty hunks of chicken, peppers, onions and tomatoes with shaves of asagio in a light, classic stew. Grab some bread and wipe the bowl clean.
Pasto is as passionate about wine as they are about food. An extensive wine list makes it a pleasure to choose a special glass to accompany any meal. As far as cost, bottles vary from price conscious to pricey, featuring the wares of small producers of limited production as well as California and European choices.
Every divine meal should end in divine dolce or dessert. Pasto offers teasing sweets like gelato, a cold and creamy dish in flavors like cherry chocolate chunk or the all-around favorite, vanilla bean. Or go grand with the crème brulée cheesecake, complete with a sculpture of sugar icicles and strewn with coarse, sweetened graham crumbles. Here, the French classic custard meets the Italian classic marscapone to produce pizazz on a plate.
“We play tribute to food and flavors,” said Long. “We put our best efforts forward and people enjoy it.” NAMLM Gail G. Collins
To learn more, visit www.pastorestaurant.us