September 2013
While Richard Fernandez was in a farmers market, he had an epiphany about where food comes from and how it is prepared. He wanted to share it with others. Concerned with the way society accepts food processing and technology, he said, “I want to get people to think differently about the world they live in.” The owner-chef of Pizza Furiosa calls it a conscientious agenda and extends this to the next generation, teaching kids about nutrition and cooking.
Born in New Jersey, Fernandez has been interested in food since he was five years old. His foodie father was intrigued with cuisine before it was cool. Maybe, it was the family’s ties to Uruguay, where the majority of the population is either Italian or Spanish, and is heavily influenced by a Mediterranean diet. Fernandez studied nutrition and food production while holding jobs with Whole Foods Market in Texas and New Frontiers in Arizona, building a foundation for his interest. That led to a partnership in Pesto Brothers on Heritage Square that lasted more than a decade. In 2011, he opened Pizza Furiosa on Flagstaff’s west side.
After two years in the dual-walled, glass-fronted industrial space, the reinvention has spawned other reinventions. In designing Pizza Furiosa, Kari Maurer gave new life and beauty to found objects from Arizona flea markets or even demolished homes. Refitted and repurposed, the unique, urban interior is novel and retro simultaneously.
Bowling lanes from Peoria became tables, school desks from Northern Arizona University became chairs, the defunct sprinkler system became stylish handles, a torn-down Scottsdale home’s marble became the bar and counter, and Coconino County Administration’s discarded lighting added a sleek style. The open environment lends itself to groups like the Chess Club, who congregate on Wednesdays to meet, eat and check-mate.
And like many eateries in this arts community, Pizza Furiosa’s support is big. Not just with revolving exhibits by local artists, but in its street art paste-up by Jetsonorama AKA Chip Thomas. The graffiti artist trims and pastes photo stock, and in this installation, his son takes to the air with seagulls in Jamal Flies.
Still, the bottom line for a pizza joint is in delivering distinctive dough. Pizza Furiosa’s crust is soft, chewy and puffy. This is Neapolitan styled stuff based on guidelines for classically defined pizza. Traditional 00 flour is used, and from there, it is all about hands. The simple dough is hand-mixed, -kneaded and -stretched in a 48-hour painstaking process from proofing to pan. In contrast, the pizza cooks in less than two minutes in the licking flames of a wood-fired oven, which imparts slightly smoky overtones.
Check out the chalkboard specials or order by the number. The #2 iceberg wedge is good place to start. The crunchy block is piled with crisp bacon, chopped egg, ripe tomatoes and blue cheese crumbles and bathed in buttermilk dressing. Or go for the #3 salad, featuring salmon smoked in-house on arugula with artichoke and roasted peppers and honey mustard over all. Keep everyone happy with an order of parmesan garlic fries. The crisp, curling pieces of potato, strewn with shards of cheese are hand-cut.
The Panini selection comes in standard and stellar options. The #5 Genoa Salami features prosciutto—salty, tender and smoky—paired with provolone and red tongues of roasted red pepper and arugula.
The Ravioli of the Moment on a Monday visit was crab and lobster. Rosy and white-striped squares filled with velvety ricotta, seafood and a dash of nutmeg swam in a rich, red sauce and came with a hearty hunk of bread to mop up.
But everyone comes for the pizza. The #10b—a hybrid, personal mix—starred nitrate-free pepperoni, basil and sundried tomato with pesto, cherry tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. The bubbles in the chewy, charred crust added authenticity.
All of this good food deserves a good drink. The electric lemonade offers high-voltage fun—strawberry lemonade is supercharged with Tito’s handmade vodka. Of course, with pizza in one hand, it is natural to put a beer in the other. Many brews are local craft offerings and run the gamut from Belgian white ale to dark chocolate stout.
“At a restaurant, it’s important to know what you’re paying for on the plate,” Fernandez said. Pizza Furiosa assures that local vendors, supplying beef to beer, contribute a bounty of flavor and freshness to the menu. NAMLM Gail G. Collins
To learn more visit pizzafuriosa.com