March 2014
When it comes to lifting a Guinness on Saint Paddy’s Day, everyone flirts with being Irish. And according to the Census, 34.5 million Americans actually call themselves Irish. That’s seven times the population of Ireland. So, Americans are right at home in a pub. The term pub is short for Britain’s public houses, which the working class frequented. These neighborhood watering holes also served meat pies and fish and chips to mop up the beer. It wasn’t fancy, but it was filling. Now with food the star of its own television channel, bar snacks, pub grub and game munchies have received an upgrade. It is still based on traditional eats, yet these reinvented classics boast high quality, inspired ingredients.
The line between remaining true and yielding to trends creates kitchen challenges. It is a win-win at sports bars and successful taverns like Flagstaff Brewing Company, Beaver Street Brewery and Lumberyard Taproom & Grille, where local handles mix with upscale burgers, exotic salads and killer desserts. Beaver Street and Lumberyard are blocks apart and owned by Winnie and Evan Hanseth. Lumberyard accepted a recent culinary contest to use Girl Scout cookies in an original recipe. The resulting coconut caramel classic concoction—Samoa Turtle Cheesecake with Stout Caramel—dazzled patrons in February.
The newest addition to the bar food scene is Majerle’s Sports Grill. This is the fifth location for the Arizona chain, which, for 20 years, has served signature dishes and niche favorites while retaining Dan Majerle’s original concept. The former Phoenix Suns three-time All-Star, Thunder Dan, was inducted into the Suns Ring of Honor in 2003—leading to the creation of the Majerle Hustle Award—held top honors for three-pointers and became a broadcaster before taking up coaching. He transferred his determination and ethics on the court to his bar and grill. Now, as head coach for Grand Canyon University, the businessman and legend is also on hand when Northern Arizona University is on the basketball schedule.
Majerle’s walls and central bar are lined with twenty-six flat screens, whose programs range from skeet shooting to football, and its downtown location builds on Route 66’s budding version of Whiskey Row. Steel, glass and wood with a neutral scape in bronze tile and original brick form a retro, clean look. The chairs are pub-height, and a mob booth rounds out the back corner.
Sit down and order a cold one. There are the usual suspects, plus local taps like Oak Creek Amber, Grand Canyon Pilsner and Four Peaks Kiltlifter. And while nursing a craft beer, give the menu the once-over. It is full of Suns fun. The Gorilla Wings are massive, hand-breaded and tossed in signature sauces like chili pepper garlic for some meaty heat. Ask for a wedge of veg to dip in the dressing.
The strawberry fields chicken salad is a bed of mixed greens, strawberry quarters, candied pecans, feta cheese crumbles and strawberry vinaigrette. All dressings and sauces are house-made, and this burst of summer brightens a grey day. Majerle’s fish tacos went from Friday special to standard stuff. The crunchy cod holds its own under shredded cabbage and cilantro green sauce with back-up from crisp tortilla chips and homemade salsa.
Thinking sandwich? Majerle’s burger is a great, cheesy patty with the usual salad toppings, rebounding with double-crisp shoestring fries. The Lumberjack chicken sandwich—a nod to our team—delivers a chunk of breaded chicken on a huge bun with the slam dunk combo of avocado, bacon and sprouts.
If the big game has gone into overtime, be sure to make room for dessert. Slye’s brownie sundae takes a classic and goes colossal. Mini brownie squares double team scoops of vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, whipped cream and a cherry, all served in a frosted parfait glass. Consuming it might require a team effort. But it can bring a great finish to a hearty meal. NAMLM Gail G. Collins
Visit www. majerles.com/flagstaff