Best of Flagstaff December 2020: Best Hole in the Wall/Late Night Snack
Written by Gail G. Collins
Hawaiian barbecue traditionally consists of marinated meat, sticky rice and macaroni salad. Its history is one of simply necessity. In the late 1800s, Hawaiian plantation workers paired rice with any available meat. This grab-and-go meal evolved into a standard plate lunch served at roadside stands and hole-in-the-wall joints around the island.
Recognizing a good thing, Aloha Hawaiian BBQ’s fans voted them the Best Late Night Snack and Hole in the Wall Restaurant.
“It’s pretty cool to win,” said General Manager Irene Lepulu. “We all work hard here from open to close, including the owner, Ben Tang, every day. It’s nice to be acknowledged by our customers.”
Chicken katsu is a popular dish. Crispy, juicy fried chicken crosses every international boundary, and a cutlet crusted with panko crumbs is perfect pairing with a variety of sides from creamy macaroni salad to dumplings to deep-fried macaroni and cheese. Other options include traditional musubi, a block of rice covered with nori, often with meat or vegetables added. Go Hawaiian with SPAM musubi.
Aloha BBQ’s mixed plate is a round-up of chicken, beef and short ribs. All meat is hand-cut and marinated in a teriyaki blend before grilling. The barbecue sauces are scratch-made, and the recipes are personal with a sweet edge. Basic flavors include brown sugar, soy sauce, garlic, ginger and onion, but on the islands, every stand has its own secret blend, as unique as a fingerprint. The Asian influences in flavor profiles and sticky rice are natural complements.
When you step into Aloha BBQ, you may be greeted with lilting rhythms and ukulele. It doesn’t stop there. Lepulu is Samoan, and other islanders, who work alongside her, lend an honest, warm island welcome along with authentic tastes.
During the pandemic, Aloha BBQ closed to dine-in guests for a spell before reopening with uniform protocols alongside most eateries in Flagstaff. Their lapse in industry business caused a roll-down effect, but Aloha BBQ is open later than other restaurants steering existing traffic happily in their direction.
People come back again and again to what they enjoy Lepulu said, “because it’s so good, different—a fusion between island and Asian food.”
Food for thought, literally, here are few reasons to hit up Aloha BBQ: It’s the closest you’re likely to come to Hawaii this year; the food is cheap as eats go; the meal plates will fill you up, and there are plenty of standard and island burgers and fries to round things out.
Like the islands from which the street food originates, you’ll find the menu tangy and sweet, colorful and fresh, fried and finger-licking, tempting and satisfying. Regulars are prone to post with gusto on Facebook, “I love you and your macaroni salad!” Aloha Hawaiian BBQ says, “Mahahlo.” BESTofFLAG2020