Best of Flagstaff 2022
Story and Photo by Gail G. Collins
From a market of butcher stalls in the 11th century to the meat-packing industry in the late 1800s to the apron-clad neighborhood butcher, armed with a cleaver and advice on supper, meat has mattered. In the past, sourcing, sustenance and sustainability were not always considered, but together, they yield superior protein and products.
Such are the aims of Proper Meats + Provisions on Route 66 in making one heck of an award-winning deli sandwich.
“The sandwiches are ridiculously big,” says owner Paul Moir, “because that’s what I want to eat.”
The fried chicken po’boy is piled high with house-made smoked andouille, slaw and spicy remoulade made with guajillo chili. It’s as good as it gets outside of New Orleans. Sweet and spicy wings on mizuna greens go Asian dressed with roasted garlic and toasted sesame.
The signature PMP cheesesteak is shaved, tender roast beef with triple peppers, onions and provolone on a hoagie. The pastrami is the best-seller for a reason. It’s an eight-day process of brining, smoking and steaming the higher fat, flavorful briskets. A peppery stack of meat with Swiss on grilled bread makes for a melty meld with fries and a pickle spear.
The sandwich list is long, including Ahi tuna salad, a daily sausage special and classics like a turkey club, Reuben and roast beef. Other options include a layered Cobb salad or loaded fries, BBQ chips or wings to nosh with a local brew.
The artful butcher offers specialty cuts of meat which can be traced back to the source and curated products not commonly found in big box stores.
“The goal is to buy meat, like wine, from single farms,” explains Moir. “Offering the highest quality of humanely- and sustainably-raised meats is at the very heart of what we do.”
Copper State Rancher’s Reserve provides premiere Arizona, single-sourced, hormone- free Angus. House made sausages are consistent winners from the meat counter, and recently, Proper upped the game with a dry-aged cooler of beef. There are familiar cuts and niche items.
“Keep an open mind—try new cuts and take the butcher’s advice on how to cook an imaginative recipe with specialty cuts,” Moir suggests.
Butcher Chris Wescott’s chef background, working at Brix Restaurant & Wine Bar and more before returning to Proper, is a versatile presence, ready for questions on preparation and developing grab-and-go products.
Poultry from Ridgeview Farms provides turkeys for the holidays, and on Thursdays, fills up buckets of all natural fried chicken for the award-winning provisions shop. Sides include mashed potatoes and gravy, French fries, mac ‘n cheese, coleslaw, house salad and cup of soup.
Handcrafted pot pies with meat or vegetarian options come in two sizes, and after 45 minutes in the oven, Moir says you’ve got dinner. Tuesdays, the pies are 15-percent off, and Wednesday is family pasta night. With homemade Bolognese or sweet fennel Italian sausage choices, plus artisan pasta, meals are fast and flavorful—Moir’s family does it regularly. The freezer case holds more choices for quick meals.
In addition, iron shelving contains practical goods for dining plus items for sale—olive oils, fresh pasta, cutting boards or cast iron pans.
Paul and Linda Moir opened Proper Meats + Provisions in 2014 to serve as the community butcher and offer fast-paced families wholesome ready meals. As owners of Brix, the fine dining option, they have cultivated experience.
There are always trials, and small businesses are affected to a larger degree by difficult economic times. They must adapt while holding to principle. Unexpectedly, COVID elevated Proper’s presence as folks struggled with scarcity. The “Arizona-raised meatery” remained open throughout the pandemic with a fully-stocked meat counter and freezer. People were grateful, ordering food online, to-go and for curbside pick-up.
“It’s always been our approach in challenging times to stay true to who we are, and that’s what we do,” says Moir. “We focus on the quality of products served, and despite inflation, we aren’t sacrificing on quality or portions—we’ll never sacrifice on that.” BESTofFLG