December 2023 – Gail G. Collins

Matters of Taste: Tamales USA offers made-from-scratch tamales all season long

AZ Daily Sun, Mountain Living Section: December 2023

Written by Gail G. Collins

When it comes to the holidays, they are wrapped up in family and tradition. The gifts are extra. Families decide how and when they celebrate, like when to put up the tree. Other customs are part of our heritage. Then, there the adopted joys of where we find ourselves.

With Arizona’s proximity to Mexico, tamales have become a seasonal tradition, whether we enjoy Hispanic heritage or not. The delightful masa handfuls, filled with meat, veg and spice wrapped up in cornhusks are gifts themselves.

The pre-Christian history of tamales stretches back to Mesoamerica—the Aztecs, Mayans and more—where corn was a revered staple extending from the belief that the gods created humans from corn. As such, corn parcels became a significant sacrifice for special events. This naturally translated to holy days or rights of passage, such as baptisms, communions and Christmas, as Mexicans converted to Christianity.

Tamales require a great deal of effort to create. Grinding the corn for masa or dough, slow-cooking the meats, crafting fillings and hand-rolling the bundles is time intensive. Naturally, it lends itself to communal preparation, a tamale-making party or a tamalada. The involved process deems it a special occasion dish, so combining holidays with tamales was fated.

As fall arrives, Eddie Aguilar sells 600 tamales in less than three hours on a Sunday. His labor-heavy process takes days to produce such numbers. It takes 100 pounds of chicken, beef and pork weekly to fulfill the orders plus a bonus 20 dozen. These are sold three days a week alongside his other menu offerings from his food truck, Tamales USA.

Sales are seasonal, and ramp up in the fall. “I love the fall and put my set-up outside. People smell the steaming tamale pots and turn their cars around to buy them,” said Aguilar.

“The authenticity of the items are not found routinely, like pork belly tacos, carne asada and enchiladas,” said Aguilar. “It’s crazy busy. I will have 20 customers in 10 minutes when everyone comes at once to eat.”

After 35 years in Arizona with a career in the food industry, more than two decades were spent at Coco’s, and later, managing 7-8,000 meals a day for school children with Southwest Food Excellence plus years of part-time cheffing at Pine Canyon. Most often, he worked hard at two jobs, but he wanted something of his own. Four years ago, Aguilar settled on selling tamales with his 14-year-old son, Samuel.

“I realized I had missed time with my two older children when they were young,” he said. “Samuel was shy, and I asked if he wanted to do something together with me.” Aguilar traded his car for a van, and Tamales USA was born. A year later, he added the food truck.

Transitioning took some time, but soon, Aguilar let his salary job go. “My personal business was flourishing—I had to do one or the other,” he said, “Now, I can’t keep up, but it’s not about the money, it’s about the commitment and family structure.”

Aguilar can prioritize what matters most and control the process. He cooks one day, sautés veg and makes 100 quarts of salsa on another, preps masa and marinades, and then, rolls tamales on the final day. With commercial fridges, freezers and blenders, it all moves through in three days. Nothing is store bought, and meat stock is strained for lard to keep the ingredient list natural.

Routinely, tamale flavors include red chili pork and beef, green chili chicken, pork and veggie, bean and cheese plus specialty offerings, like chicken mole. Recipes are authentic to Mexico City, where Aguilar grew up, learning from his father the merchant business of buying produce in bulk to resell. Legacy and his long experience in administrating kitchens aid him in balancing groceries to sales.

For holiday orders, Aguilar limits it to 100 dozen tamales, but on Christmas Eve, he offers an extra 500 that sell out in two hours.

Aguilar’s son graduated high school last year, and at his father’s suggestion, is taking a gap year to consider his future studies.

“I happen to like what I do,” Aguilar said. “I’m very happy, and I accomplished what I set out to do. Samuel is a great kid—he listened, learned, and now, he is on salary.”

Through Tamales USA, Aguilar passed on the tradition of work, discipline and skills, while putting family first—all by unwrapping the simple gift of a tamale. And his tip for family kitchen success? Be happy, make it fun. AZDSun

Best of Flagstaff 2023

Flying high on gratitude: Brandy’s Restaurant and Bakery picks up Best Waitstaff alongside Bakery, Breakfast and Brunch

Written by Gail G. Collins

Brunch is the best of all worlds. It’s breakfast, it’s lunch, it’s sweet, it’s savory—brunch is whatever you desire. There is no wrong time to eat, and no recipe is out of bounds. There are appealing options for vegetarians, vegans and others with dietary aims. Even the drinks vary from coffee to mimosas and more. There is no dress code, but as a general guideline, do get dressed.

In fact, the only difficult choice is where to go, but Brandy’s is always a delicious decision. From eggs in every form to classic pastries, locals voted Brandy’s Restaurant & Bakery for Best Bakery, Breakfast, Brunch and Waitstaff. It has been a consistent winner.

“Every year, it’s nerve-wracking, but it feels good,” said owner Kelsey Drayton, and wife Jamie added, “It confirms we’re on the right track, because we sweat every change. They’re hard decisions.”

That said, when things are going well, people don’t rock the boat. Since its inception, Brandy’s quickly rose as Flagstaff’s morning mecca, and after 30 years, it’s an icon. Kelsey worked for original owners Ed and Brandy Wojciak before taking the helm with Jamie nearly 10 years ago. In 2018, they also bought La Bellavia and rebranded it as Brandy’s second location in downtown. Recently, a patio was added and the menu pared, but otherwise, it’s steady on at Brandy’s.

“We take it one day at a time whether it’s going well or we need to adapt,” Kelsey said. “We can make a right turn when we need to and try new things.”

A new thing was the addition of the Captain Jack sandwich to the menu. They owners needed a quick pick-up breakfast. Scrambled eggs, chilies, pepper jack cheese, bacon and tomato piled on a brioche bun with a slather of gunslinger mayo, sourcing Arizona hot sauce. It builds a tasty, satisfying handful. Brandy’s runs a scratch kitchen with baked goods made in house, including their delectable breads and buns.

“The sandwich sells well at both locations and travels well,” Kelsey said.

Other best sellers are eggs Benedict, pancakes and omelets. There are eight exceptional and extra exceptional Benedict options, choice fruit and chocolate chip fillings for pancakes and omelets with myriad meats, cheeses and veg to create the perfect plate. Cinnamon rolls are the top pick from the pastry counter.

Brandy’s boasts an espresso bar with specialty drinks, like a Baja mocha blending espresso with Mexican chocolate and spices with steamed milk, topped with whipped cream and dusted with sweet cinnamon and nutmeg. Then, there are the day drinking offerings, like a chai tea latte laced with Irish whiskey or a tropical mimosa, mixing champagne, pineapple juice, orange juice and grenadine.

Breakfast is served all day, and lunch runs from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Like its diners, Brandy’s staff is also long standing. “We focus on culture,” said Jamie. “We are team-oriented with low drama and no gossip.” Guests are greeted by name and the atmosphere is welcoming. Some customers have been coming in for decades, and their table is always waiting.

Looking ahead, Brandy’s will expand the vegan items on the menu to include pancakes. The downtown location is continuing to grow despite the limitations of the building. A line winds down the block, but it is not competition with Macy’s, but driving the trend and camaraderie around morning alternatives. Down the road, the plan is get out of town to add another Brandy’s location.

Brandy’s is building on their strengths. “That is the goal—to offer a consistently friendly environment and quality food,” Jamie said. They are humbled with their wins, and as their 30^th anniversary arrives, she added, “We’re flying high on gratitude.” BofFLG

Best of Flagstaff 2023

Family is the framework that makes the Flagstaff Roofing team the best in town

Written by Gail G. Collins

Family is legacy, and a legacy business undergirds and promotes its core principles—its values, its shared and meaningful goals as well as its character within the community. Such family mentorship designs the framework that allows an economic venture to pass from one generation to another.

This is the story of Flagstaff Roofing, which logs three generations since 1967. Jon and Calli Salcido celebrate this uniting of family and financial aims as patrons voted Flagstaff Roofing as our Best Roofer. It’s also a vote endorsing consistency and integrity for Calli’s father and grandfather.

When the Salcidos took over the reins 10 years ago, they rebranded the original business from Havasu Roofing to reflect its Flagstaff base. The couple worked diligently to respond rapidly to customers.

“People are complimentary about how prompt we are,” Calli said. “If they call today, we will be at their home within five days to survey the roof and have an estimate to them by the next day.” The quick reaction, quality service and word of mouth recommendations keep the business coming to Flagstaff Roofing.

Honesty is the watch word in an industry that harbors its share of storm chasers. After a gale or blizzard, roof sellers often come knocking on doors, offering free inspections and creating anxiety for homeowners. They offer free roofs through insurance claims, drumming up business. So how does a customer get a straight answer on whether someone actually needs a new roof?

“I don’t see a roof,” Jon explained, “I’m not a corporation going door-to-door looking for hail damage. I give an honest opinion about whether a roof needs replacement. And if it does, we give the customer a good price—as low as we possibly can.”

Jon advises people to go local and hire a company with a stake in the area. He advises against feeling bullied to sign a contract on the first contact. And there are genuine concerns around hiring contractors from Phoenix. “They don’t know the codes required and so on for installing a roof in Northern Arizona,” Jon said.

According to Jon, a customer once received a quote for $16,000 to replace a roof from an out-of-town entity, but uneasy about the price, the man called Flagstaff Roofing for a second opinion. “We charged $7,000 to do the job. The storm chasers try to scare customers,” he warned.

Flagstaff Roofing has a family reputation in town and has earned community support. It is the first time they have invested energy in trying to earn the Best of Flagstaff title and are thankful for the win. “People have done a lot to help us to get here. We’re blessed to have what we’ve built together,” Jon said.

He credits Junior and his crew, which he claims is the best. “Together, we make it a good company.”

But family is the glue in a legacy business, like Flagstaff Roofing, where Jon praises Calli’s commitment. “She has been Employee of the Month for 10 years in a row.”

Legacy businesses stand the test of time and act as cultural anchors, sources of town traditions and history. As Jon reminded, go local. BofFLG

Best of Flagstaff 2023

Brown Bag Burger smokes competition, winning Best Burger and Best New Restaurant

Written by Gail G. Collins

Americans eat 50 billion hamburgers a year. It is incredible to comprehend. We obviously love a good burger, but some added discernment might be in order considering that number. So, what is it that takes a good burger to great?

Obviously, it’s about the meat, quality protein with enough fat for flavor. Chefs advise going light on the seasoning, handling the patty as little as possible and grilling over pan frying. Toast your buns and you are well on your way to happiness.

Brown Bag Burger knows this and much more and proving it to win awards for Best Burger and Best New Restaurant. The Prescott-based original location was a longstanding standard under changing ownership, but when, Ian Burns bought the shop in 2020, he defied the advice and the odds.

“The previous owners told me not to change a thing,” he said. “Keep the burgers big, but sub-par (as he saw the quality), but my goal was to change everything.”

He hired a French-trained chef to create new sauces and secured an upscale meat vendor. “The beef is Angus, custom-blended by a Scottsdale butcher for us, so it super fresh,” Burns said. “The seven-ounce patties contain no preservatives and are cryo-frozen. We don’t cut corners.”

Change is hard, and previous customers complained about the new creations, like the best-selling Hangover, which won accolades at Taste of Flagstaff. The burger is layered with hash-brown style fries, a fried egg, pepper jack cheese, pickles and chipotle mayo. Another winner, the Hawaiian, piles on grilled pineapple, lettuce, tomato, Swiss cheese and a secret sauce to satisfy island dreams. Third in line goes Cajun with a blackened patty, cheddar cheese, coleslaw and remoulade. These top three burgers are smeared with house onion jam.

Some customers noted their frustration with the novel upgrades at Brown Bag every time they ate there. As Burns pointed out, “But I’d already won the battle—the customers kept coming back.”

Burns has a broad background in in the food industry from front of the house to bartending to sales and event planning and general management. The pandemic might have sidelined him temporarily, but it was the catalyst for bigger ideas.

Traffic, sales and praise grew, encouraging expansion. With the highest burger ratings in Prescott, Brown Bag Burger was invited to join a successful footprint in a commercial development project in Flagstaff. The location opened in 2023, and the 3,000-square-foot space seats 60-plus guests.

The Prescott shop outgrew its location and moved to a brewery on the historic main street with Master Brewer John Allen in charge. His prowess won Brewer of the Year in 2022 with his bitter, Irish red, Saison and festbier.

Chefs at Brown Bag are highly trained to grill perfect products. Each burger is finished with smoked butter and served with a choice of fries or side salad or make the upgrade to onion rings, sweet potato fries or fried pickles.

Vegan patties are made in-house with brown rice, Chinese black forbidden rice, oats and black beans along with a classified blend of spices. The buns are made on the premises with no additives to take each burger to the next level.

A handful of regulars come in almost daily endorsing the Best of Flag wins. “We put a lot of effort into the feedback and loyalty that got us to where we are,” Burns said. “The love we’ve received, good employees and customers create a family we enjoy.”

According to Burns, a great burger tops fresh buns with local meat and scratch sauces to build mouth-watering burgers people can’t stop talking about. Brown Bag Burger strives to be the place where burger lovers unite. “We did something well and people noticed.” BofFLG