Written by Gail Collins
As the golden light of autumn waned, the brisk afternoon warmed with the happy chatter of guests. Pecks on the cheek, lingering hugs and the joyous anticipation of time with loved ones set the stage for a holiday gathering. The cook mopped a brow with a dish towel, inhaled the stuffing’s fall fragrance and smiled. Nothing can top the celebratory combination of glorious food, home and company. In fact, it is the melding of elements, both festive and familiar, that creates the greatest happiness.
Gatherings can feel stressful, but serving specialty foods and a showcase bird is worth the planning and preparation. Even professionals, like Logan Webber, executive chef at Brix, utter colorful language when the top of the stuffing chars instead of browns, so relax, home cooks—it’s all part of the process.
Sustainable Serving
When it comes to choosing quality ingredients, local is always better. Even a massive bison creates a smaller carbon footprint when the animal is grazed, processed and eaten regionally. Sustainable farming and ranching guard future land use for all. Environmental preservation—avoiding toxic substances or depleting natural resources—builds an ongoing ecological balance. Sustainable practices consider animal welfare, protect public health and support vibrant communities. The good news is that increasing demand for sustainable living is fueling a robust market of products and producers.
The Colorado Plateau offers a wider variety of proteins and produce than might be expected for a semi- arid land. Some of the sources readily available to Northern Arizona include: McClendon’s Select, Roots Micro Farm, Black Mesa Ranch, Two Wash Ranch, and of course, the local farmers market. Three generations at McClendon’s Select have cultivated nearly 100 acres of certified, organic farmland in Peoria and Goodyear. Roots is an urban farm in Flagstaff supplying colorful micro-greens—vegetables, herbs and flowers—to local restaurants. Black Mesa Ranch boasts the “flavor of the White Mountains” with farmstead artisan cheeses crafted from registered Nubian goats. Two Wash Ranch, a five-acre poultry farm, raises chickens, ducks, geese and pea fowl in a cage-free environment. For the easiest downtown shopping however, visit Proper Meats + Provisions, an abundant source of regional, quality fresh and jarred items.
“There are many reasons to use sustainable ingredients,” Chef Webber said. “It’s better for the environment, but there is also the chance to talk to the people, who make the food, about their practices and upcoming farm produce. This offers the chance to change up the menu with seasonal items.” Farmers markets are ideal for this, and he also chats with other chefs, who can help with sourcing. Webber, who entice diners with the unique root vegetables in autumn, added, “Local goods taste so much better and have a longer shelf life that extends recipe opportunities.”
Game
Unusual proteins, like rabbit, quail or venison, incorporate hunting and introduce wild flavors to the table. They can be trickier to cook, but traditional methods, such as braising boar or elk to combat a firmer texture, work well. If the taste is strong, trade them out for standard cuts in soups and stews.
Poultry is best brined. Webber’s brine recipe includes: 9 liters cold water, 1 cup kosher salt, 1 cup molasses,1 cup packed dark brown sugar, 1 halved garlic, 4 rough chopped shallots, 3 tablespoons black peppercorns, 4 tablespoons mulling spice, 2 bay leaves, 1 sprig rosemary, 4 sprigs each thyme and sage plus 2 oranges. Boil items for 10 minutes and let cool to room temperature. Submerge four small birds or a 15-pound bird for six hours and prep as usual for roasting.
Holiday Feast
Webber’s holiday feast featured brined Guinea fowl, whose moist meat hinted of molasses. Alongside, a mixture of roasted baby carrots, fennel and beets with garam masala served up a wholesome depth. Greens with the autumn goodness of cranberries, walnuts and pickled apple vinaigrette added fresh flavors. Sweet potato gnocchi with chevre (goat cheese) and sage provided some starch. Webber’s secret is boiling the gnochhi, and then, sautéing them in small batches for a crisp, outer shell and light, center bite. The chef’s chestnut stuffing recipe with fennel sausage and tart cherries made for a playful mouthful and perfect accompaniment to the fowl.
For a table of 8 guests, two desserts is a good rule. Pumpkin sponge, rolled up with delicate goat cheese and painted with chocolate, created a swirl of squash sweetness. Fancier and festive, crème brûlée hid fall-spiced custard under sugar glass scattered with pomegranate seeds. It was a classy, classic finish to a holiday meal.
Prep & Planning Tips
All of this cooking might seem overwhelming, but as in eating an apple, it is easily done in bites. Webber suggests starting the cooking before the event.
Two days ahead, brine, and then, truss the birds. The day before, bake the desserts, toast the bread for stuffing and chop the veg. Pulling the prepared ingredients together on the day will be simpler and faster. Overall, use quality products, even for shortcuts, like stock. Proper Meats + Provisions roasts the bones and mirepoix for homestyle results.
Paul Moir, owner of Brix and Proper Meats + Provisions, is a Level 1 sommelier and offered some solid pairings for the menu served. “Overall, a white Rhone—Marsan, Viognier or Roussanne—steers away from the usual citrusy Sauvignon blanc or buttery Chardonnay and plays up the earth tones and gamey qualities of fowl.” If a red is a must, a pinot noir or Grenache has more acidity to balance the higher fat content and flavors of game. For dessert, Madeira or tawny port provides mellow, rounded notes with sweets or strong cheeses. “It’s incredible!” Moir enthused.
To build the perfect charcuterie board in the run-up to the main event, Moir reminded hosts that balancing different elements is important. “Cream and fat in the cheeses—strong like blue and mild like brie—with the salt of cured meats and olives, plus the sweet of dried fruits, compliment one another.”
When it’s time to set the scene for the holiday meal, expert Kim Duncan of Kim Duncan Design, provided practical advice. “Grocery or farmers market flowers are fine,” she said. “Start with a base of greenery and insert fall branches from the store or your backyard.” Also, add fruit, like pears or pomegranates, for eye-catching appeal. Votives and pillar candles, spread across the table, cast warm light and extend the glow. Every guest matters, so personalize place cards by writing precious note of thanks and tuck a sprig of lavender or rosemary into the printed menu. Before the meal, buy time and a chance for guests to mingle with a cocktail hour. If weather allows, sit outside by a fire or heat lamps with an array of simple appetizers. When organizing a holiday event, the purpose is to make a meal and a memory for every one present. With expert tips and enthusiasm for local flavors, this year’s holiday gathering will be the best one yet. NAMLM