October 2013
When good people work together, great things can happen. This is the overriding mantra of Twin Arrows Navajo Casino Resort on I-40, about 20 miles east of Flagstaff. In the 1950’s, the exit—with its iconic two arrows piercing the ground—served as a popular rest stop. Now, like a turnaround story, the casino and hotel complex sits on the opposite side of the interstate, with its logo arrow duo pointing skyward.
Twin Arrows opened in late May as the only casino and resort in Northern Arizona and will employ about 800 people, mostly Diné. Like the outbound twin arrows—reflective of the Navajo journey through time—the aim is to move the Navajo tribe and the upscale enterprise upward together. What does it take? Team, talent, training and tradition. This effort is key in the kitchens of Twin Arrows. According to Food and Beverage Manager Tim Kozenskie, “It’s a lot of training and a lot of fun. We have a hungry, talented team—eager to learn and proud of their Navajo culture. We’re proud to be a part of this group effort.”
Getting in gear meant hard work for all and built ownership in the restaurant projects. Executive Chef Quinn McCord, who worked at Atlantic City, New Jersey’s Taj Mahal Casino Hotel for 25 years, said, “The only place where ‘success’ comes before ‘work’ is in the dictionary.”
The grand property has a variety of food options from a buffet food court to a sports bar to a café, but our focus is particularly skyward with Zenith Steakhouse. The ambience in this high-end restaurant takes diners to a mountain top vista. A layered ceiling structure at the entry mimics a Hogan emerging into a dining room of vast, cliff walls mixed with eagle’s nest imagery utilizing birch branches as custom lighting and at floor level to create dining zones.
Jason Smallcanyon runs Zenith’s kitchen. His mother was a cook in Kayenta for 30 years, and Smallcanyon went from dishwasher to line cook there in short order. Through opportunities and under the tutelage of experts, he progressed to earning a culinary management degree in 2005 from le Cordon Blue College of Culinary Arts in Scottsdale.
As executive chef for several hotels and casinos, the American Culinary Federation silver medalist honed his skills at Talking Stick Resort and put Wandering Horse Buffet on the map, catering events for the likes of Barrett-Jackson Auction and Poison Girls Club.
So when it comes to mentoring “greenhorns,” as Smallcanyon affectionately called his newest crewmembers, he is eager to pass on his experience. “The main goal,” he said, “is jobs—to work for and directly with Navajos—training and bringing skills along to all.”
The main influence on Zenith’s menu is beef, introducing the Navajo Beef Brand. Ranchers from the 14R and Padres Mesa partnered with Labatt to bring premium beef to diners. The 14-ounce New York strip steak is rated a choice chunk of meat that eats like prime. Incredibly lean with good char, Smallcanyon suggested tasting it alongside the 22-ounce longbone rib eye. Aged 28 days, seared and finished at 1500 degrees, the Chicago stockyards chop is a worthy candidate for the match-up. A foot-long bone also explains its nickname, Tomahawk. The marbled meat moves under the knife and is traditional prime in every way. As for comparing the two, each cut is a delight in its own right.
When Smallcanyon touches tables with guests, he recommends the Navajo rib eye and Kobe short ribs. The ribs are braised for six hours with root vegetables, red wine, tomato paste and veal stock and is served with creamy polenta. “When you can eat short ribs with a plastic spoon,” he said, “that’s good.”
Seafood holds its own on the meaty menu with the freshest lobster, salmon, mahi mahi and more from Santa Monica Seafood. Combine both worlds for surf and turf. Poached in a butter bath, a moist, 12-ounce lobster tail flowered on the plate next to a 6-ounce petit fillet. Intense flavor and no need for a knife.
These stars shine brightly, so Zenith’s simple sides make a worthy counterpart. Grilled asparagus drizzled with balsamic syrup, sautéed spinach with Maytag blue cheese, garlic mashers or the standard—an enormous baked potato with the works plus double-crisp bacon. It feeds two. The wedge salad is not your typical crunchy, creamy chunk, but brags a bit with watermelon radish, the tang of pickled onion and heirloom cherry tomatoes and garlic crumbles.
To finish, try the go-to Navajo dessert, bread pudding. Or revamp memory lane with deconstructed banana cream pie. A teepee of banana spears stands over ultra-smooth pudding in a graham-lined bowl. From start to sweet finish, the integration of Navajo culture and food makes a meal at Zenith a highpoint. NAMLM Gail G. Collins
To learn more, visit twinarrows.com