Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living, May 2017
Written by Gail Collins
One of life’s simplest joys is eating out, and by that, we mean out of doors. Warm and lovely days encourage us to camp, hike or fish, and inevitably, to gather for a meal. Everything seems bigger in the great outdoors— including our appetites for food and flavors. Gathering for a barbecue or escaping for a picnic provides real health benefits, such as vitamin D, boosted mood and increased activity.
The delights of eating outdoors are timeless. From a trestle table filled with a family feast in the Tuscan countryside to a patio table laid with linen on the Champs Elysees to a rooftop view above it all in downtown Flagstaff, al fresco dining is a pleasure. “We have the designation of being the only rooftop dining in town,” said David Smith, chef/owner and partner with Jeremy Meyer of Root Public House.
Root’s rooftop perch is spacious, nearly doubling the its size, under a bowl of blue. A bank of seating wraps the patio plus plenty of tables for soaking up the rays and the view make it the best summer spot. The San Francisco Peaks hold prominence on the horizon surrounded by historic city sites. The bar is self-contained, providing equivalent drinks service as the main floor with eight to 10 local brews on a dozen taps. Or try the signature cocktail Root Down. It’s vibrant, containing only local ingredients: Desert Rain gin, carrot juice, jalapeno bitters and local IPA foam exuding a citrus fragrance. Although the rooftop tends to drinks and nosh, guest have access to the full food program.
Like the expansive rooftop, Smith and Meyer’s idea to own a fine dining restaurant grew. Raised in Virginia and Arkansas respectively, they channeled their southern backbone for inspiration originally. That blossomed as well with Smith open to the whims of whatever looks good and tastes great on the menu. Meyer summed, “Root Public House pushed our boundaries in good ways—we’re keeping it organic.”
Both had lengthy industry backgrounds. Smith arrived in Flagstaff a decade ago with successes as partner/owner of Brix Restaurant and Wine Bar, before opening Criollo Latin Kitchen and Proper Meats and Provisions. Smith met Meyer, the bar program manager at Criollo, in 2010. Understandably, the team had a proper following when they launched Root in July 2016 with a bang. The partners’ consistent mission provides sustainable, organic and local fare. White paint and steel touches create an understated vibe like the owners’ trademark jeans and tees.
People imagine fried or rich dishes as southern fare, but Meyer said, “Southern cooking is homegrown and fresh, not heavy. Our personal and professional backgrounds meant gardens in the backyard growing up.” He reminisced about hand-ripened tomato and cheese sandwiches. That said, Root’s menu doesn’t disappoint diners desiring classics like fried chicken or shrimp and grits.
Jamon Serrano, roasted corn and pot liquor to juice up the tomato gravy on their shrimp and grits create a light and flavorful dish topped by delicate pea tendrils. A box of live microgreens sits at the kitchen pass-through window awaiting Smith’s snip and serve fresh garnish.
The charcuterie is a feast of flavors to savor separately or mix: crispy pork belly confit that melts on the tongue; pistachio and cherry pork pate that begs for house made, shaved pickles; cured Virginia salumi, peach-bourbon compote, Y Fenni—an ale and mustard seed Welsh cheddar—12-month manchego, cana de cabra—a silky, Spanish goat cheese—and relish. It is all served on a board, hewn from the same black walnut tree as the bar from Meyer’s Arkansas yard.
The cold, roasted vegetable salad contains seasonal garden goodies—in this case, Brussel sprouts, carrot spears and fingerling potatoes—tossed in cream cheese vinaigrette with a scattering of fermented black garlic. “We keep the menu vibrant and seasonal offerings force the hand,” Smith said. “That keeps it interesting for guests.
There is always room for the airy and popular car-Root cake, made of roasted carrots with a brown sugar crumble crust. Think praline, and then, think about enjoying it under a black velvet sky scattered with diamonds on the only rooftop restaurant in Flagstaff. NAMLM
Learn more at: www.rootpublichouse.com