Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living Magazine, August 2017
Written by Gail Collins
Executive Chef David Lapinski’s first job in the culinary industry seemed unlikely, at the time, to propel him to the celebrated successes of his long career. The high schooler hired on to wash dishes at Mount Holyoke College. On his first day, the cook was sick and promoted him to organize the meal service two hours later. Having noted the young man’s interest in attending culinary school, the cook gave him the menu rundown, and it went off without a hitch. “I’d never cooked for anybody before in my life,” Lapinski said with a chuckle. “I’d only taken a home ec class, but I never washed dishes again.” Within two years, he took on the role of catering manager. Perhaps, moving from the dirty frying pan to the fire galvanized and prepared him for the challenges ahead.
After graduating from Johnson & Wales, Lapinski began a coast-to-coast tour, beginning with Disney World’s Apprentice Program, where he learned classical French cuisine. Nearly two decades later, his resume lists the renowned Commander’s Palace in New Orleans, Sidewalkers in Manhattan, Max’s Restaurant in San Francisco, followed by positions in Virginia, Maine, and Massachusetts before settling in Arizona. Along the way, Lapinski refined his craft and gained further professional training. It earned him accolades, which include: recognition in Gourmet Magazine, Best New Restaurant, second place for Most Creative American Cuisine, Executive Chef Certification, American Culinary Federation’s Chef of the Year plus various gold and silver medals within the association as well as ice carving competition awards.
Despite his management background, Lapinski works the line as necessary and enjoys it. “My tradition is to lead by example, whether it’s a dirty job, like cleaning the grease trap, or managing,” he said. Opening restaurants and menu design are strengths honed to launch The Capital Grille in Scottsdale. Then, building on his club experience, The Estancia Club took him up a rung before heading north to manage the dining at Pine Canyon Clubhouse.
Menu concepts rotate seasonally in commercial kitchens, such as braising meats in winter or playing up light and bright English peas in spring. Summer introduces squash and grilled meats. Is it different when the chef and his wife Nita make dinner at home? “Eighty percent of our summer meals are salads,” he confessed. “Number one is protein, adding crunchy, sweet, and salty components with dressing to match the protein.” He suggested lemon-thyme for shrimp and berries for poultry. A quick recipe blends bottled vinaigrettes with fruit. Simply, blend a peeld, chopped mango with bottled Italian dressing and spike with zippy vinegar, depending on the fruit’s sugar. The possibilities are endless.
Lapinski’s choice protein prep is timeless. Season both sides of boneless chicken thighs with ready mixtures, such as Weber or McCormick, and render the meat under the broiler. Just 8 – 10 minutes on high, skin side down, and char for additional five on the other side for moist chicken. Let it rest, while pulling the salad together. The chef mixes and matches greens bought in fresh bunches for savings instead of buying bagged lettuce. He washes, and then, dries the leaves in a salad spinner for great results. “Cut your own lettuce and add fresh daikon, shaved Napa cabbage, artisan Romaine, radicchio or arugula,” he recommended. “The volume lasts longer and adds unique flavor elements.”
How food is raised is important to Lapinski. Sustainable, local, artisan goods create quality meals, no matter which kitchen he cooks in, and grocers that stock foods from farms with humane and best practices, such as Sprouts, simplify shopping.
Southwest cooking is consistently popular. Lapinski has taught classes featuring standards, like Spanish rice and flan, plus lessons on the many colorful chilies. His quick tip, when firing up the grill, is to throw on some jalapeños, and then, blend them with tomatoes, olive oil and garlic for a speedy salsa.
To keep it cool in the summer heat, brine chicken breasts or smoke a pork loin and serve with crisp coleslaw or pickled veg. “Pickling is easy,” Lapinski said, “there are thousands of recipes online, but simple is best: vinegar, water, sugar and salt.” To pickle, pour hot liquid over any fresh vegetable or marinate in a cold vinegar mixture overnight. “Add the chicken and rice; it’s delicious.” The pros always make it sound easy, but in this case, it is. Let’s cook! NAMLM