Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living Magazine, October 2021
Photos and Story by Gail G. Collins
A sandwich — it’s a simple, portable handhold with all the necessary ingredients for a meal buttressed by bread. In other words, it’s the perfect luncheon invention. In fact, it was the brainchild of John Montagu, the 4th Ear of Sandwich, who crafted the phenomenon in order to eat and remain at the gaming table. The splendid creation bears his title.
There is an art to assembling this veritable feast between crusts. Bread is the canvas. It is also where art becomes architecture. Whether one prefers rustic ciabatta or a granary slice, the bread should be substantial, not sloppy — a foundation upon which to build. Spreading a condiment provides a barrier to mushiness or adds moisture. Next, cheese imparts strength as well as sharp, nutty or velvety appeal. Meat often showcases, and greens cap it off. The British Sandwich Association — now, there’s an organization worth its salt and pepper — actually crowns champion sandwich makers annually at the Sammies Awards.
Premium ingredients differentiate and drive customers to their favorite deli for the real deal. Aspen Deli utilizes Boar’s Head meats and cheeses to handcraft sandwiches on Village Baker breads, kitted out with homemade sides. Situated across from city hall in downtown Flagstaff, they draw a steady fan base with a casual approach and novel options.
“We mix it up to keep regulars coming in,” said co-owner Carlos Turrieta. His goals are, “Making people happy—their smiles—and exceeding their expectations.”
Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living Magazine, September 2021
Story and photos by Gail G. Collins
In Thai culture, meals are a social occasion, and dishes are enjoyed family style — the more, the merrier. There aren’t courses, but choices from many categories served together. These include a variety of colorful stir-fries and fragrant curries, plus soup and pineapple or mango for dessert. A mix of sweet, salty, sour and spicy elements creates a satisfying supper.
Each October in Thailand, a vegetarian festival takes place over 10 days in tribute to Taoist belief barring meat consumption or harming animals in order to refine minds and bodies. The event fosters rich traditions and spiritual practices, but also challenges celebrants, clad in white for purity, to free the soul of wrong and cleanse the body as acts of devotion.
Memory of this joyful celebration pushed Chada Tirakul to fulfill her dream and open Red Curry Vegan Kitchen, her second Thai restaurant in Flagstaff.
“This was a beautiful time in Phuket, and personally, I eat vegan two to three times a week, but in September and October, I am a solid vegan,” she said.
The earnest business graduate grew up cooking with her father for family gatherings and worked as a student in a Thai restaurant, knowing down deep that one day she would open a restaurant of her own.
Tirakul ran herself ragged in the early years to make a success of Dara Thai before she trained up the next generation to take over the reins. After ventures in Taos and Santa Fe, her committed partner, Sasiya Stoneburger, joined her in launching Red Curry in early 2014, the first vegan eatery in Flagstaff. The aim of bringing authentic Thai food as vibrant, vegan fare “… whisk(s) you away to the streets and markets of Phuket,” just as Tirakul hoped.
Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living Magazine, June 20, 2021
Written by Gail G. Collins
Georgette Quintero has consistently looked for creative solutions. When opportunities arose—like her daughter attending Northern Arizona University, finding space to store supplies for her food truck business or securing a commercial space during the pandemic while other businesses struggled—Quintero found a way forward.
“I go the extra mile, think outside the box and always ask the question, ‘What is the next step?’” she said.
As owner of Alejandro’s Mexican Food, the newest eatery on Heritage Square in Flagstaff, Quintero thrives on change. And as a family, they are in it together. College initiated their move from Phoenix to Flagstaff; everyone came with her daughter, Quintero said simply. Her children, Alejandro and Ariana, are adults now and work in the business, while high-schooler Joey helps out.
Alejandro’s Mexican Food opened softly in April with much maneuvering behind the scenes. COVID-19 made it complicated, but was not an excuse. Quintero had been searching for retail space for months, hoping to buy, and lease negotiations took time. With situations strained in 2020, landlords gave breaks to current tenants to hang on, but there were no concessions for new ventures coming in behind them.
The shift from Italian restaurant to Mexican cantina was straightforward and practical with a full kitchen and stylish seating in place from the previous tenant.
“It was already turn-key down to the colors,” Quintero said. “Green, white and red—the Italian flag has the same color blocks as the Mexican flag.”
Alejandro’s, named for her oldest son, began as a food truck in the fall of 2017. Reputation increased the reach to two trucks, based on a solid selection of burritos and street tacos with handcrafted fillings. Nachos, quesadillas and carne asada, which continues to earn raves, rounded out her recipe for a successful business model.
Running a food truck is much harder than operating in a fixed location, according to Quintero.
“There is only so much electricity, water and sufficient space to store food,” she said. “We needed to expand and grow.”
Gaining the café at Coconino Community College gave her a dedicated kitchen for the first time. Still, from the start, the plan was always to open a brick and mortar restaurant. What sets Alejandro’s apart is the striving for continuous improvement, making menu upgrades regularly.
“The recipes evolve because I’m tweaking them over time at 9 or 10 at night after we close—it’s hard on my weight,” she said with a laugh.
Each night, Quintero plays food critic, sampling a dish as it is presented to customers with a beverage. Then, the brainstorming on ingredients or garnish or… Recently, fried ice cream was the project. It begins with a taste goal, a list of ingredients and decisions—cornflake or bread shell? Such assessments stimulate Quintero.
The new sit down, upscale presentation of familiar fare includes signature carne asada, plated as steak with rice, beans and a garnish of spider-sliced peppers. House burros, chimichangas, tacos or tostados are stuffed with a choice of carne asada, carnitas or pollo, and come fully loaded with extras, like guacamole, plus rice and beans. The trendy birria taco is sweet, sour, spicy and savory slow-cooked beef.
Ceviche is the Mexican answer to sushi with shrimp marinated in lime juice plus cucumber, tomato, onion, cilantro and queso fresco—a lively, summer choice. More seafood and oysters will expand customer options.
The flan is a distinct recipe of smooth custard, strawberries, chocolate sauce and fresh whipped cream. It’s almost too lovely to eat, but too marvelous to miss. Or be a kid again and order ice cream with a churro.
Handmade beverages offer quality, such as horchata, a traditional rice-based drink, sweetened and shot through with cinnamon. Agua de Jamaica is a tart and refreshing tea of hibiscus flowers. Agua frescas chase away thirst, but a liquor license will bring additional alternatives to Alejandro’s. The michelada, made with light beer, like Tecate or Modelo, and mixed with tomato juice, lime and Worcestershire is bloody Maria, the perfect pick for brunch.
Alejandro’s is open for a filling, budget breakfast, lunch and dinner every day, except Monday, from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Like the proprietor, it’s a flourishing phenomenon.
Quintero’s business card lists all of the hats she wears: Owner, Marketer, Head Chef, Baker. She is nothing if not determined. Plus, during the pandemic when school was closed, her food truck fed any child who could not afford a meal.
“We work hard; we are nonstop soldiers,” she said. “We are transitioning to a restaurant—please, be patient with us, and it will be fantastic.”
On a trip to Uruguay, I strolled the streets of Montevideo
and followed my nose to a late dinner. Through the glass of a classy restaurant,
their parrilla tempted other passers-by.
Flames licked up the oven’s sides, with wood piled nearby to feed a bank of
glowing coals. Racks of ribs, chorizo, chicken, and of course, beef slowly
cooked on the enormous grill. The server suggested a local bottle of Tanat to
accompany a sample platter of meats. Grass-fed beef, never touched by fire, is
uniquely flavorful. Even in this fine setting, barbecue, or asado, is the
choice of discerning diners.
Latin
America stretches from Mexico’s northern border to Argentina, where the gaucho
grill originated. Hospitality and warmth are the peoples’ hallmark and extend
to their sensual dancing and zesty cuisine. Drawing on European influences from
Spain and Portugal, and infused with wider inspiration, diverse and colorful
recipes emerged. Bright, bold tastes result from fresh ingredients, like
cilantro, lime, poblano peppers, and sazón, a traditional
seasoning of annatto, garlic, cumin, coriander, black pepper and oregano. In
2017, Technomic’s Flavor report found that 68 percent
of American diners rate Mexican food as their second favorite cuisine. The
versatility of flavors satisfies the adventurous with empanadas, ceviche and
tamales.
Such experiences drove owners Paul and
Laura Moir to open Criollo in 2009. “We loved Latin food,” he said. “Laura had
broadly traveled Latin America, and our family regularly went to Guadalajara.
Criollo was unique for Flagstaff at the time.”
The menu began
with tapas, but evolved following customer tastes. The dishes change
seasonally, but items, like bacon nachos and taco plates, are firmly fixed per
customer feedback. The couple even courted over nachos, confessed Moir, making
them a staple in which the owners enjoy seeing other people indulge.
The Happy Hour menu
has expanded to 15-20 choices, offering quality food at bargain prices. Six
street tacos top the list. The fish taco—beer-battered catfish with a zippy ancho
crema and cabbage— leads, but order a sampler to include the al
pastor—slow-cooked pork shoulder with pineapple guajillo, clove and cinnamon, plus
cilantro crema—and a chorizo cauliflower taco with pickled red onion, aioli and
guacamole. Queso? Of courso. Especially delicious is the fundido with Oaxacan
and jack cheeses layered with caramelized onion and poblano pepper, garlic
confit and black beans. The hour is happier with a classic margarita or a
choice of revolving flavors, like prickly pear or guava. Think tropical with a
Pineapple Express, mixing mescal with juice, green chartreuse, lime, blood
orange bitters and agave—summertime, anytime.
To reassess their
aims, Moir and staff recently explored anew what “criollo” means. Literally, it
refers to a person of true Spanish descent from Central America. For Moir, it
extends to the pride and far reach of influences, such as the Caribbean or
Peru’s Asian impacts, through migration.
Executive chef
Jay Felton increased the vegetable dishes on the menu—for example, snap peas
and soy flavors are pulled from Peru. He runs a scratch kitchen of sauces,
dressings, chorizo and more. Tortillas are local as is the produce from
McClendon Farms. The protein is supplied via Moir’s butchery, Proper Meats +
Provisions, which aims to act as a wholesale supplier, giving diners all the
more reason to try the steak plate.
The skirt steak
is charred and tender atop smoked potatoes with a chimichurri sauce of garlic,
oregano and cilantro, plus roasted corn salad and blistered shishito peppers
for hearty plate of tastes. No less indulgent is the barbacoa flauta, stuffed
with chuck beef braised with onion, oregano and apple cider vinegar with potato,
fresh aioli coleslaw and smashed avocado.
Close out the
meal with a Basque-style churro, sandwiching horchata ice cream and rolled in
cocoa nibs for a creamy, passionate, Latin nibble.
Keeping things
lively for chefs and clients this year, Moir introduced the Burger Battle. For
eight Sundays, two chefs went head-to-head, crafting their best burgers. Guests
voted for their favorite and raised money for a charity of the winner’s
choosing.
“Everyone in the
industry is so busy running around with their hair on fire,” said Moir. “This
presented a great opportunity and a good cause for them.”
In the end, diner
loyalty builds successes, like Criollo.
“We are downtown, urban, local and casual fun in the center of it all,” said Moir. “We’re 10 years in, and we keep getting better.” NAMLM
Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living
Magazine, September 2019
Written by Gail G.
Collins
In the last dozen years, Old Town Cottonwood has moved in a
pointed direction with economic development. Branding itself as the Heart of
Arizona Wine Country in 2014, a revitalized Main Street boasts tasting rooms,
supporting nearly 25 wineries along the Verde Valley Wine Trail. The riparian
environment and climate of mild winters, low humidity and
limited annual rainfall provide the perfect place for grape growing. But
one cannot survive on wine alone—even award-winning bottles. Ancillary business
boomed alongside this to provide hotel rooms, gift shops, tours, and of course,
eateries.
In January 2017, amidst a rare snowstorm, Colt 804 Grill
warmly opened its doors and welcomed guests with Southern hospitality and
platters of smoked meats, guaranteed to melt any reticence of desire for lip-smacking
barbecue on Main Street.
“We moved to
Cottonwood to be near family and created a restaurant that treats clients like
friends in a homey atmosphere,” explained owner Brenda Clouston. “We kept it
casual with a walk-up concept to offer better pricing on a quality meal.”
Colt is a family affair with staff that builds
relationships, working as a team with minimal turnover. The ambience is cowboy
chic, borrowing from Brenda’s professional interior design skills. She created
the spotted cattle hide pub stools and husband Bob with son Carson, a welder by
trade, built the double-wide smoker. Bob’s father crafted the bar, with inlays
of walnut, alder and rosewood.
Large portions of good food at affordable prices spurred
steady growth for Colt over the years. Additionally, the smokehouse caters
three or four events a week. Simply choose from the a la carte menu.
“Everything can be customized and beautifully packaged for pick-up
or delivery for groups,” said Carson, who manages Colt. He added with a wink, “They’re
large portions—we tend to overcook.”
It’s definitely a custom kitchen, too. “Everything, except
the onion rings, sweet potato fries and buns, are scratch made—the rubs, the
sauces, you name it.”
Nothing is ever frozen, and the beef is ground fresh daily,
mixed with pork belly for a juicy burger.
“It’s a taste explosion,” said Brenda. The price for an
8-ounce single patty is $5.95, which is served on an eggy Brioche bun with
salad toppings, a fat, homemade pickle and a slather of zippy Colt sauce.
The turkey sandwich features a thick, smoked slice of breast
with hearty Applewood bacon, lettuce, tomato, pickle and a swipe of fresh mayo.
Tacos of smoked chicken are served on fresh, double corn tortillas with cheese,
avocado, Baja sauce and fresh pico de gallo—messy goodness.
All
meats are slow-smoked over white oak for a clean taste. The enormous smoker,
which weighs nearly 3,000 pounds, turns out 200 pounds of brisket, 12 racks of
ribs, 20 chickens and six turkey breasts daily. That, in addition to 10 trays
of bacon and four gallons of beans, while smoking enormous pans of cornbread plus
macaroni and cheese alongside any bar additives, such as oranges.
After more than 10 hours, the brisket is fork tender. An
order of baby-back ribs counts a full dozen, and the turkey sausage is lean and
crumbly with the bite of fennel. Can’t decide on what to try first? Order the
platter with a sampling of ribs, pulled pork, brisket, smoked turkey and brat
sausage. Douse the meats in any of seven house-made sauces available. They range
from subtly sweet Kansas City to Desert Heat with jalapeno and molasses to Maui
Wowie with sweet onion, tequila and bacon.
Sometimes, customers proffer advice. A customer passed on
his grandmother’s handwritten list of 14 ingredients for the mac ‘n cheese. The
kitchen added further magic to hone a mature, complex, smoky pasta dish. It exudes
a richness that might add a notch to your belt. For the final frontier, enjoy a
simple cookie, big enough to share, bulging with goodies like oats and
chocolate chips.
Stop
in for a hearty start to your day. The eggs Benedict come in various forms,
including the Black Angus with a slab of brisket and spicy Santa Fe sauce. The
Vaquero omelet is stuffed with brisket and grilled poblano and red peppers,
onions and pepper jack cheese. Both come with a steer-load of brisket hash.
Still, what’s a grill without a bar? Colt serves a bevy of
bourbons, educational whiskey flights and craft cocktails to a host of
regulars.
“It’ a wonderful element, pulling world-renowned bottles
plus new and interesting small-batch products,” said Carson.
Pull up a stool and stay awhile. NAMLM
Located:
804 N. Main St., Cottonwood. Hours: Breakfast Thursday-Mondays from 8
-10. 30 a.m. and daily for dining from 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Northern Arizona’s
Mountain Living Magazine, August 2019
By Gail G. Collins
Flagstaff has been a crossroads since its inception. It’s no
wonder that offering a bed as well as food and drink emerged as its enduring
trade. To meet the growing needs of travelers, Hotel Monte Vista was built,
opening on New Year’s Day in 1927. Funded by prosperous area leaders, including
author Zane Grey, the 73-room hotel was originally dubbed the Community Hotel
before the longstanding name change to Monte Vista, meaning “mountain view.” As
one of the oldest continually operated hotels in Flagstaff, it is listed on the
National Register of Historic Places, and the current proprietor, Jimmy Craven,
celebrated 25 years of ownership in May.
Included in this legacy property on the corner of San
Francisco Street and Aspen Avenue are Rendezvous and Lotus Lounge, located in
what was once the town’s third post office. Its evolution continues as a Pan-Asian
restaurant and bar.
Genie Kuester enjoyed a longtime love of the hotel,
blossoming into oversight as general manager for Lotus Lounge.
“It’s a great place to work, and I love the hotel’s history,”
she said.
The
feel is urban Asian with mod, fun accents like cheerful lanterns and maneki-neko figures, lucky Japanese
waving cats. Contrasting a flat black backdrop with gleaming white tile
accents, the second-level loft overlooks a U-shaped main bar with overall seating
for 177 guests.
“Come in for a quick meal or drink stop or head upstairs for
date night and stay awhile,” said Kuester. Twinkle lights lead the way. Curated
local art revolves monthly for ongoing visual appeal.
Lotus Lounge opened late in 2017 and built a cohesive core
of staff quickly. The hours expanded to lunch in April and can service a
turnover crowd with bento box-style choices or linger over sashimi and wine.
Weekly specials keep it fresh.
For lunch, a burger or salad is a staple. The Lotus Lunch
Burger is made with Kobe Beef, miso mayo, cream cheese, tempura sweet potato,
serrano peppers and butter lettuce on a toasted, buttery bun and served with
steak fries or signature Hawaiian macaroni salad, rife with chopped veg. The
good luck salad showcases chiffonade cabbage, zucchini, carrot, peppers and
fennel with arugula and butter lettuce plus udon noodles. Tossed in
tamarind-yuzu (Asian citrus) vinaigrette, the plate is scattered with wonton
crisps and chicken or fried tofu. Bright flavors and textures earned the salad
a promotion from menu special to standard.
Dietary options are indulged. In fact, the miso soup is
vegetarian for simplicity, and rice noodles meet gluten-free needs.
“We have our finger on the vegetarian and vegan populace,”
said Kuester. “We try hard to say, ‘Yes,’ to our guests.”
The overall menu covers Thai, Japanese and Chinese cuisine
plus sushi. Honolulu Fish Company delivers fresh product twice weekly while
Massachusetts’ Island Creek Oysters have been voted hands-down best by Lotus
guests.
“There are no compromises on quality,” said Kuester.
Javier Cortes and his brother, Eddie, run the sushi program.
The tiger roll is wildly popular with spicy tuna, avocado, cucumber and
sprouts, topped with salmon, shaved lemon, red tobiko roe (flying fish), black
sesame and tataki sauce—a sweet, soy, ginger, garlic blend. The roll zings with
vibrant color and tartness. The chupacabra roll binds salmon, cucumber and
avocado, topped with tuna, green onion, white and black sesame plus fragrant
eel sauce.
The plate lunch specials mix it up, like beef stir-fry with
gyoza (pork wontons), salad and house dessert, such as lively lychee sorbet.
As a sister to Rendezvous, Lotus Lounge builds on her
reputation for classy cocktails and infused spirits while discovering new
tastes. With 10 beers on tap and a full complement of Asian-branded liquors,
it’s not just about sake. Try a flight of ½-ounce pours of gin, vodka, whisky
or sake to explore high-end possibilities within an affordable price structure.
Among the rum-forward cocktails, try the subtly sweet
Moonrise Mai Tai. Unique is the avocado smash, blended with Blanco tequila, avocado,
lime, serrano and simple syrup for creamy, green refreshment in a tipsy glass.
Community is huge for Lotus Lounge, participating in many fundraising
events, such as Wine & Dine in the Pines, Palette to Palate, Feast for
Flagstaff and more with enduring devotion to Victim Witness Services.
In the end, Lotus Lounge delights in gaining new
ground. They are expanding into the
previous Pato Thai space and growing team skills.
“We educate about our fish, liquor, wines and sushi to build
confidence in staff to pass on to clients,” said Kuester. NAMLM
Northern Arizona’s
Mountain Living Magazine, June 2019
Written by Gail G. Collins
When it comes to achieving a goal, the earnest will hustle
in every way possible to make it happen. That’s how Nancy McCulla evolved from raffling
off dinners to pay college tuition to owning her catering business, Simply
Delicious, and then, running Café Daily Fare. At 13 years old, she worked in a
kitchen in Illinois and under the tutelage of a master German baker. The
competence and confidence gained propelled McCulla to continue cooking after
earning a bachelor of arts in ceramics at Northern Arizona University. Following
stints in local kitchens and prepping pastry for Grand Canyon Railway, the next
step seemed inevitable.
“Café Daily Fare has an eclectic menu,” said McCulla. “We’re
a chef-driven Mom and Pop—very aware of life in Flag, the venues and what
people like to eat.” Her catering business is nearly 20 years strong, while the
lunch spot, tucked up on the ridge above Route 66, celebrates a decade in
business.
McCulla gathers international inspiration for cooking. Her
Brazilian Fish Stew is an example of trial, tried and true. Though she had
never visited Brazil, flavors leapt from the pages of recipe books, tempting
her. The resulting stew of cod chunks, tomato, coconut milk, lime and smoked
paprika ladles up alongside cilantro and cumin rice. It’s lively and savory in
turns. “I play, make, tweak and look for new traditions,” she said. “Cuisine
crosses lines globally.”
The point of conviction came when Brazilian travelers
ordered the fish stew and proclaimed it an authentic success. “I don’t
Americanize food—that’s not fun,” McCulla confessed.
The Chef’s Favorites on the menu are guest picks as well.
McCulla wanted to serve duck, so created approachable (and irresistible) duck
tacos. The blackberry-marinated fowl with habanero aioli, Fossil Creek goat
cheese, arugula, jicama and toasted pepitas combine for a decadent handhold.
The fish tacos are fabulous, too, so go ahead and order half and half. House
salad and bread or black bean salad accompany the favorites.
The sandwich list is well-traveled. The hot Italian plumbs
McCulla’s deli roots. It loads capicola (Corsican pork), Genoa salami, pickled
red onion and tomato with Pecorino Romano for a sharp edge on ciabatta. A
generous, well-dressed salad of greens, apple, avocado, jicama and pine nuts on
the side builds a big lunch. Beans, greens, spices and other products are as
organic and local as possible.
The Simply Delicious club layers turkey, capicola, Applewood
smoked bacon, Swiss, Provolone, tomato and romaine with slathers of mayo and
Dijon on sourdough. The hearty stack satisfies. The balsamic-glazed Portobello
is upgraded with grilled eggplant, plus smoked onion, poblanos, roasted red
pepper, pesto mayo and romaine on brioche. Boost the protein with a cup of
soup, especially when the creamy quinoa—veg-filled tomato broth with garbanzo
beans and pumpkin seeds—is on offer. Half sizes of sandwiches and salads are an
option, and the extensive array of add-ons, ranging from cumin crusted chicken
to balsamic glazed grilled steak, makes a meal of greens.
There
are 60-plus years of experience cooking at Café Daily Fare, and it shows. What
some may not know is the eatery has a secret menu on occasion. Seasons stimulate the staff, especially as
far as soups and stews, so ask. You might be rewarded with a fun and flavorful
soup flight.
Community drives Flagstaff, and McCulla pitches in
enthusiastically with other restaurateurs for events such as Arizona Breweries
& Veterans, Arizona Cancer Society, United Way and more. Interestingly,
McCulla’s caring cuisine has sparked generosity and legacy from guests in
return. One sent jelly made from her Wisconsin garden. Others with no children
have passed on treasured family recipes to the chef.
What began for McCulla as an avenue for funds grew into a
passionate business nourishing her artistic expression through food. She reads
her sauce book regularly, even taking it on vacation to browse yet again. Still, cooking is about pleasing her guests.
“Our town has a great mix of people: college students, cowboys and ranchers,
locals and tourists,” McCulla said. “I love a newcomer in our café—I’m happy to
serve them wonderful food.” NAMLM
Café Daily Fare is
located at 408 W. Historic Route 66 and is open Monday-Saturday 11a.m.-4 p.m.
Northern Arizona’s
Mountain Living Magazine, March 2019
Written by Gail G.
Collins
When it comes St. Paddy’s Day, everyone claims a bit of
Irish, even if it’s simply a wearing ‘o the green and a proper toast: “May your right hand always be stretched out
in friendship and never in want.” Filling your cup is truly a Gaelic matter
though, so let’s travel a wee bit of Great Britain’s whiskey trail.
Scotch whiskey hails from five regions in Scotland and is
aged a minimum of three years in oak barrels. Single malt is made solely from
malted barley, while single grain adds another grain to the mash. Each is produced
at a single distillery. Two or more single malts from different distilleries
create a blended malt, and a similar ratio of grains designates a blended
grain. A blended whiskey, however, mixes malts and grains, and constitutes the
majority of such spirits. Scotch is distilled twice, while Irish whiskey is distilled
thrice. Both make a worthy whiskey.
Uptown Pubhouse in downtown Flagstaff has long encouraged raising
a glass of whiskey with friends. It opened in 1993 as Uptown Billiards with
pool tables and an extensive beer selection. Later, it began serving spirits,
especially whiskey.
Today, owner James Jay stands behind the copper-topped bar and
offers suggestions. He prefers 10-year Ardbeg Uigeadail when it’s cold.
“It’s peatiness is like an earthworm crawling in the soil,
loamy,” he said. “It’s especially good with our Guinness stew.” Sirloin ends
are slowly simmered in broth and Guinness with onions, carrots, turnips,
parsnips, and potatoes and served with dinner rolls to mop up every drop.
Jay’s 15-year vision was not merely a bar, but an Irish pub
that “would offer food anyone can feel comfortable with while enjoying the
social component—no need to bounce from spot to spot.” Nearly two years ago, Paddy’s
Grill opened to fill the bill. Order at the window with pager alerts for pick-up.
Chef Nick Clark launched the menu.
“It’s a simple pub with a little of everything for
everybody,” he said. His aim includes quality fare in a tight turnaround for
diners.
The true test of a pub is its fish and chips. Clark’s batter is
lightened with Smithwick’s Irish ale and seasoned with garlic, ginger and
onion. Four hearty hunks of haddock—a British standard—come with chips (fries)
in a newsprint-lined red basket, reminiscent of British vendors, who serve the
street food in a newspaper cornet. Douse liberally with malt vinegar, a spritz
of lemon and tartar sauce.
Padddy’s Reuben stacks tender, shaved slices on toasted,
farmhouse-thick, marbled rye. In preparation, the corned beef is marinated in
Guinness and cured for up to two days with mustard, juniper, allspice and peppercorns.
The choice of sandwich sides includes fries, tater tots or beer-battered onion
rings.
Paddy’s popular
appetizers are built on fries. The curried fries are slathered with classic,
golden curry gravy plus a parsley sprinkle. Dig in. They’re also vegan, like
the Impossible™ Burger, made with heme and utilizing fermentation to achieve a browned,
ground-round effect. For a bigger bite, try the barbacoa, slow-cooked with
orange juice, ancho chili paste, oregano and more. The shredded heaven is heaped
on cheesy fries or tater tots and capped with sour cream, avocado, jalapeños
and salsa verde.
For an ooey-gooey close, choose the deep dish, chocolate chip
cookie, served in a skillet with ice cream and chocolate sauce. It’s enough for
two.
This traditional pub offers authentic grub for St. Paddy’s Day,
too. Corned beef and cabbage with potatoes and carrots are available while
supplies last.
“It’s popular, and we sold out entirely last year,” said Clark.
An Irish pub is a connection spot, and Uptown creates
opportunities to do just that. Sundays offer Celtic music jams, the Literary
Society meets on Mondays with books to lend, and Wednesdays are Trivia Nights.
Six billiard tables form the pub’s central corridor with flags
bearing coats of arms. It’s not fancy, but it promises fun, as if the memory of
good times lingers in the air, beckoning. A handful of regulars recognized that
a dozen years ago. A snowstorm had blown through, and they warmed themselves at
the bar. Aloud they mused at the number of whiskeys behind the bar and how long
it would take to taste them all.
“I guessed we had about 70,” said Jay, “and I began keeping track
of their trials on napkins behind the bar.”
It’s still recorded on paper, but Uptown has over a thousand
earnest sippers working their way through the bottles now. Upon completion,
they will join honorees on Uptown’s Scotch Wall.
Clark’s favorite whiskey is Hell-Cat Maggie, an Irish spirit, of
course, which also rotates as amongst the specials.
“Join me in a glass,” he suggested, “or better yet, buy me one.” Sláinte!
NAMLM
Northern Arizona’s
Mountain Living Magazine, February 2019
Written by Gail G.
Collins
The best things in life change little. They are honed by
time and elements, yet their inherent value grows dearer. This is true of the
Grand Canyon’s vistas and the fare served in El Tovar’s dining room, where the
panorama from a coveted table may distract you from the favored French onion
soup. The signature recipe has been served for nearly four decades. Though a typical
room at the luxe lodge cost $4 per night when it opened in 1905, the standards
have remained as high as the “perpendicular mile from rim to river,” as recorded
in the primer on El Tovar in Princeton University Library’s Collection of
Western Americana.
El
Tovar captivates guests with a grand entry. Its dark timber, Native American
rugs and art with an array of wildlife on display matches the natural grandeur
of its perch on canyon’s edge.
“The Grand Canyon is the destination of a lifetime,” said
executive chef Matthew McTigue. “El Tovar is on par with that.”
McTigue interned in the kitchen before graduating from the
Culinary Institute of America in 1995, and the job hasn’t lost its allure. While
it’s challenging to recruit to a remote locale, a dedicated staff has built a
life there with careers clocking 20 to 40 years. Thomas Ratz has served guests
for 38 years. His affection for the park extended to stenciling red deer on the
dining room walls, redolent of pictographs on Bright Angel Trail, and collecting
Fred Harvey memorabilia. Harvey, El Tovar’s founder, was a talented visionary,
who fulfilled the need for quality hotels and service for weary travelers heading
West.
“We are like a family,” McTigue said. “People have raised
their kids here.” This tight community inhabits homes listed on the historic
register and some walk to work.
The Grand Canyon attracts an international crowd, and El
Tovar’s menu reflects a comparable Continental cuisine with a southwest streak.
It is classic, yet seasoned.
Tamales are made in-house with tender, seasoned shreds of
beef or pork chili and served with chipotle crema. Savory scallops float on
mango puree with prickly pear syrup balancing a raw, lively pineapple-jicama
slaw. Soup de jour invites ladling in the bacon-corn chowder, hearty with
chunky potato and queso fresco or the heritage onion with sweet ribbons
swimming in robust broth. “It is deceptively simple,” admitted McTigue. The
recipe can even be found on tea towels for sale in the gift shop.
The crab stack is the chef’s creation piling lump meat with avocado
and tomato plus cumin and cilantro olive oil and topped with hand battered onion
rings. The house salad boasts shredded jicama, goat cheese, berries, tomatoes
and pine nuts for a gorgeous beginning to any meal. Spinach salad with
gorgonzola, bacon and fried shallots on a wheel of Granny Smith apples and
endive leaves creates a complex flavor profile. Try the lively salmon tostado,
layered with mixed greens, roasted corn salsa and crema with a side of black
beans and rice.
The New York strip is Arizona grown and crusted in a
coffee-cumin rub with a demi-glace crafted of New Belgium’s 1554 black lager and
a side of pepper-jack potato wedges. The mixed grill includes filet mignon,
semi-boneless quail and poached shrimp with brown butter mashed potatoes to fill
a belly decadently. The seabass is moist with a roasted tomato and fennel sauce
plus sprightly sweety drop peppers and bright snap peas. Cauliflower puree with
saffron adds velvety appeal.
An
extensive list of mostly domestic wines and some local brews are available to
accompany the meal. To close, seriously sweet choices, such as fruit sabayon, a
chocolate mousse taco, flourless chocolate cake with crème anglaise and
strawberry sauce and seasonal crème
brûlée, tempt diners.
“We want to serve people and make them happy,” said McTigue.
“We are the entrance to the experience at the Grand Canyon.”
Like the eternal canyon, meals are served on timeless Mimbreño
china. Crafted by architect Mary Colter with Native American-inspired images in
black and grey, the china mimics that used on the Santa Fe Railway, which brought
guests to El Tovar. On a busy day, the restaurant serves 500 guests, and it’s
usually busy.
“The atmosphere at the Grand Canyon is something to admire
every day,” said McTigue. “We see it fresh through others’ eyes.” That includes
an impressive guest list, such as Presidents Bill Clinton, George W. Bush and
Barack Obama, and celebrities, like Nicholas Cage, Al Pacino, Will Smith and
Ron Howard. McTigue reminded, “Still, we are all made small by the Grand
Canyon.”
The chef’s stellar advice:
After dinner, go out and look up at the night sky, where the stars seem
brighter and closer than elsewhere. “It’s the best show on the planet.” NAMLM
Northern Arizona’s
Mountain Living Magazine, January 2019
Written by Gail G.
Collins
The Shambles is the oldest street in York. Its name descends
from an archaic word meaning slaughterhouse. The market of butcher stalls is mentioned
in The Domesday Book of William the
Conqueror, an 11th-century grand survey of England. Soon after, the
Butchers Guild, a professional organization, who held sway in matters of
hygiene, weights and measures and so on, formed to oversee the trade.
Fast forward in history to 1865, when Chicago’s meatpacking
industry utilized a vast network of railways, and few decades later, the advent
of reliable refrigeration generated potential. In the 50s, neighborhood butchers
promoted their offerings with recipe booklets, such as A Medley of Meat Recipes. In those days, a shopper popped into the
green grocer for fresh produce and the fish monger for today’s catch, but the
butcher often suggested supper. Cleaver in hand, he would point out specialty
cuts and how to prepare them.
This golden period—captured in ambience and action—still
exists at Proper Meats + Provisions, newly relocated on Route 66. Chunky,
custom, butcher block tables meet leather benches with their backs fastened by
leather pulls against rough paneled wainscoting. Chalkboards advertise the menu
choices. Iron shelving contains practical goods for dining plus items for sale—olive
oils, fresh pasta, cutting boards or cast iron pans. Kim Duncan Design fashioned
the vintage air.
Behind a long glass case, filled with sausages, steaks and
unique offerings, Joe Fiandach stands ready to provide advice on locally-sourced
animals with a sure pedigree.
“The goal is to buy meat, like wine, from single farms,”
said owner Paul Moir. “We have three sources in the case today: Arizona Legacy from Humboldt, Pierre’s Prime
from Rimrock and Creekstone Farms out of Kansas.”
Award-winning restaurateurs Paul and Laura Moir also founded
Brix and Criollo Latin Kitchen in Flagstaff, and originally opened Proper Meats
in Southside in 2014. Now occupying the former Grand Canyon Café space, the new
location expanded the shop in multiple ways.
“It gave us opportunities to spread out the kitchen space
for production and preparation and include a new seafood case with wider
selections,” said Paul. “It also provided more space for retail and expanded
hours.” Meal options, like a bucket of fried chicken, homemade stock or
Bolognese, sausages or charcuterie and more, are prepackaged in a case for easy
access. Even Fido can benefit from homemade dog food.
Proper Meats drives to Perkinsville to pick up animals each
week. “There is no place that delivers whole animals to your door,” said Paul.
Processing the whole animal from nose to tail yields by-products, such as lard,
tallow, soup bones and organ meat. Nothing is wasted at Proper. Still, a pig
only has two bellies, which doesn’t near the numbers needed for Saturday sales
of bacon. Two briskets won’t fulfill a day’s order of sandwiches either, so certain
cut are supplemented.
There is an educational component to shopping a neighborhood
butcher like Proper Meats. Pierre’s Prime Beef is dry-aged for 25-30 days. The grass-fed
and grain finished meat is darker with a gamier, concentrated flavor. Arizona
Legacy Beef’s Criollo cattle are lean. Paul advises basting the ribeye with
butter before cooking it in cast iron.
“It’s about keeping expectations in line with new products and
techniques,” he said. Sausages blister on the grill and flame, so poach them
first, then finish them off.
“The sandwiches are ridiculously big,” said Paul, “because
that’s what I want to eat.” The fried chicken po’boy is piled high with
house-made smoked andouille, slaw and spicy remoulade made with guajillo chili.
It’s as good as it gets outside of New Orleans. Sweet and spicy wings on mizuna
greens go Asian dressed with roasted garlic and toasted sesame. The PMP
cheesesteak is shaved, tender roast beef with triple peppers, onions and
provolone on a hoagie. The pastrami is the best-seller for a reason. It’s an
eight-day process of brining, smoking and steaming the higher fat, flavorful
briskets. A peppery stack of meat with Swiss on grilled bread makes for a melty
meld with fries and a pickle spear.
The charcuterie board varies; this day with prosciutto,
fennel salami, house capicola—a Corsican cold cut—three cheeses, including barely
Buzzed coffee-rubbed cheese, sourdough toasts, pickled peppers and onions,
honeyed apricots and figs plus wholegrain beer mustard. Toss back a local beer
or sip an Arizona wine for the perfect indulgence.
“Keep an open
mind—try new cuts and take the butcher’s advice on how to cook an imaginative
recipe with specialty cuts,” said Paul. Benefit from higher quality meats or
learn about value cuts that aren’t available in supermarkets. Either way, a
better dinner is served with choices from Proper Meats + Provisions. NAMLM
Proper Meat +
Provisions, 110 E. Route 66, is open daily 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
