AZ Daily Sun, Mountain Living Section, March 2024
Written by Gail G. Collins
Street food is a happy way of life in Asia. Each country has its favorite flavors and dishes, which double as comfort food and takeaway. It is fresh and homemade, delivering instant gratification. The history of street food is long and diverse, originating in ancient Greece and traveling to China, where, as charity, it was offered to the poor, but over time, street food emerged as a culture all of its own.
Although food is often available in rural roadside locations throughout Asia, it was within urban settings that markets first blossomed, and then, thrived as food centers with little overhead. Guests may be served in makeshift restaurant stalls, where cramped seating and a sense of community abounds, or eaten on the go. Whether it is nasi goreng in Indonesia or popcorn chicken and boba in Taiwan, one has heaven in hand.
And so it was for Jerry Tseng, who grew up in Taiwan with popcorn chicken in one hand and boba tea in the other. Partnering with Chuan Lu and Frank Yang, they recreated those youthful memories through Sono Kitchen & Boba with two locations in Sedona and Flagstaff.
The partners met at Northern Arizona University, studying for their masters in business. They went their separate ways to some extent, though Tseng and Lu both worked for Panda Express as an area manager over 15 stores and vice president of operations, respectively. After more than 15 years, they circled back to Flagstaff in 2018 to consider entrepreneurship. It was meant to be a reunion, but the meeting netted more, as they yearned for a more relaxed lifestyle and the camaraderie they once knew.
Tseng’s father, Jason Tseng, was an executive chef, and the family owned China Gardens for decades. He gave sage advice to the trio on products, recipes and local business savvy.
“We are good friends, who share the same dream, same knowledge and decided to do business together. We were cautious, but after thoughtful research, we said, ‘Let’s do this,’” said Lu. “The idea was to create a fast, casual concept, combining Japanese and Taiwanese cultures, serving great drinks and great food.”
Read more: Matters of Taste: Sono Kitchen & Boba serves up scratch-made meals and memoriesThe partners hold vast corporate experience between them, but still, their timing was tricky. While looking to locate in Flagstaff, they found space in uptown Sedona, launching in June 2020 during the pandemic. Early success spurred efforts to make Flagstaff a reality, and as Tseng’s parents retired, the partners secured the inside track to their second location on Milton Road in October 2022.
The associates are active operators of Sono Kitchen, which borrowed its name from Tseng’s wife. “Sono is Japanese—it is short, clean sounding, easy to pronounce, and keeps it family-oriented,” Lu said.
Sono’s boba teas focus on quality with ingredients imported from Taiwan. Real fruits, not syrups, and purveyor-selected teas, using no powders or shortcuts, keep it simple and good, according to Lu. “Our boba has intense flavor to create that aha, whoa feeling.”
Popular drinks include Thai milk tea, strawberry Snow White, Sono boba milk tea and taro yama. But what is a boba? Tapioca pearls, made of cassava root, swirl milk, fruit and beautiful tea into a marbled effect, as they gently glide up a straw. Students love the drinks, shooting pics and sharing sips.
Most boba shops serve food as an afterthought, but Sono makes authentic street food, showcasing Pop ‘n Bo. “We want to introduce this combination to everybody! It’s fun and good,” enthused Lu. The salt and pepper popcorn chicken is hand-cut, marinated, batter-dipped and served with a medium boba drink. The chicken bucket reads, “Unforgettable flavors from childhood.”
The Japanese donburi bowls feature house noodles created by Jason Teng. Topped with teriyaki chicken and ground pork, marinated cucumbers and egg, the dish offers three-dimensional flavor and texture. Gyu don layers shaved beef with egg plus green and yellow onions over rice. All dishes are scratch-made, servings are generous and protein-packed.
The afternoons are busy at Sono, serving drinks from 18 standard and seasonal selections, while lunch and dinner bustle with serious food in one hand and boba in the other, recreating Jerry Tseng’s childhood.
“The partnership is a good marriage, contributing and combining knowledge,” Lu said. “We are flexible and quick to learn and change. Staying close to business is vital, and we are on the front line to raise this baby well.” The proof is Sono’s continued expansion as the partners search for space to open a Phoenix location. AZDSun