AZ Daily Sun, Mountain Living Section, September 12, 2024
Written by Gail G. Collins
Mexican Pacific Coast seafood cuisine is called mariscos. Its reputation is especially renowned in Sinaloa, where the northwest region’s gastronomy blends flavor from pre-Hispanic and colonial eras. Over time, new marine and exotic elements elevated the dishes, which reflect a mixture of sea and shore in local vegetables. The coastline is abundant with ocean life from snapper and grouper to tuna and mahi mahi to shellfish and is both flavorful and healthy.
Ingredients, such as lime, avocado, cilantro, red onion and habanero, Serrano and bell peppers enhance the area’s recipes. Shrimp is prized and the base for many dishes, combined with fish to create stews and soups. A popular Sinaloan dish gaining traction abroad is aguachile, made with raw shrimp, cooked in lemon with chiltepin peppers, cucumber and red onion. Marinating the shrimp in citrus changes the flesh and impregnates them with essence and spice. This is the formula for ceviche. Sinaloa’s seafood carts and restaurants offer an enormously surprising array of variety and taste.
Armando and Blanca Garcia owned a steak and seafood restaurant in Sinaloa, so when they came to Flagstaff, their plan was already in place. After working as a server and manager for El Tapatio for five years, they established Baja Mar Seafood truck in late 2022, reminiscent of the typical mariscos stalls they knew.
“The big goal was to open a kitchen and food truck with authentic and different food that nobody else sells,” said Armando Garcia. “We make our own batter recipe for fish tacos and shrimp and serve it with our house salsas. The secret is in the dried chilies.”
The couple introduced their Sinaloan aguachile dish to locals blending the spicy, juicy shrimp with lime and their salsas, to create a popular seller. They run a scratch kitchen and cook shrimp each day. Sourcing the freshest seafood is a secret to their success. A restaurant in Phoenix flies in enormous quantities for frozen storage and commercial resale, so the catch on the coastline is at its best for fish tacos and quesadillas, ceviches and more.
Read more: Matters of Taste: Baja Mar SeafoodA standard ceviche combines raw fish types with lime juice, tomatoes, cucumber, avocado slices and red onion. Baja Mar serves four types: shrimp, fish with carrots, tuna with mango habanero, eel sauce and sesame seeds and Baja Mar, mixing shrimp and octopus, another good seller.
Trendy tacos come in a choice of meats from carne asada and barbacoa to fish varieties, served with rice and beans. Specialties include shrimp albondigas in broth with carrots and potato.
“The funny thing is, I am not a chef,” Garcia said. “I cooked for my family, not as professional—no one taught me, no classes. I cook the way I like to eat.” As Garcia put it, the common reaction is, “Everybody loves it.”
The general manager for the Americana Motor Hotel certainly fell for Baja Mar, and when the property was updated, he organized the mariscos as the food option on site, which opened in February. This allowed the menu to expand to include a larger variety of tacos and quesadillas, like the mar y tierra—an enormous flour tortilla stuffed with carne asada and fried shrimp, crisped with cheese outside and topped with house chipotle mayo. Other items include burritos and sides, like nacho fries loaded with carne asada.
The food truck is located at Fort Valley Road in the Chevron gas station Tuesday through Friday when not in use for weddings, school events or Oktoberfest. Baja Mar also serves from a weekend stall at the Farmers Market.
According to Garcia, the next step for the ambitious couple serving delicious seafood is, “to find a place, our own beer spot, with a few tables and a nice bar and serve beautiful cocktails and ceviche—it’s perfect.”
Garcia said, “I invite all travelers, but especially locals, to enjoy the best and most unique Pacific Coast seafood in town at Baja Mar.” AZDailySun