AZ Daily Sun, December 27, 2024
Written by Gail G. Collins
How much do we learn standing by our mother’s side? Plenty, especially in the kitchen. In real time, her actions model what matters. We learn priorities, discipline, skills, techniques, creativity, joy in serving, teamwork, and of course, love.
Beginning on a step stool, even the toddler can participate and appreciate the effort it takes to provide a beautiful meal and its associated tasks, like dishwashing or sweeping up. In time, important elements are passed on—the family recipes and traditions.
So it was for Bertha Lopez, who at 14 years old was her mother’s right hand in cooking for her nine siblings in Mexico. Daughter Brenda Lopez emphasized, “Bertha is the OG—the original gal—the creator of the big idea and the recipes at Los Alteños. Cooking is a big thing in our family. At get-togethers, we are always about the food.”
Los Alteños Restaurant has stood in its present location on Milton Road in Flagstaff since 2000 when Bertha helped her uncle Juan Rodriquez to open it. She worked there for many years until he retired in 2017. Brenda said proudly, “We kept it in the family,” and the business continued with Bertha’s family.
Brenda grew up in the kitchen, learning at her mother’s elbow. “Our food is authentic. Some are family recipes. With 40 years of cooking experience, Bertha can taste a dish and list the ingredients. She does trial and error to reproduce something.”
The seriously family business includes Bertha and husband Juan, Brenda, Ruben and Maria. As for living and working together with the challenges they can present, Brenda said, “We got the hang of it, but bumped heads lot to start. With family, you work things out.” She added, “I wouldn’t want to work with anyone else.”
The Jalisco style is simplistic, according to Brenda, with low seasoning—posole, carne asada and birria, beef marinated in red, spicy sauce. The sauces are scratch made and fresh ingredients feature. “It’s not over-seasoned; it’s like you’re at Grandmother’s house.”
Read more: Matters of Taste: Los Alteños RestaurantLos Alteños is well known for its salsas in mild to hot chili in flavors of avocado, guacamole, green and hot red—the popular pick. Guest mix them, creating personal blends. “We’re working on selling jarred salsa as a personal touch because people are always asking,” Brenda said.
From the specialties list, birria tacos are the top seller. Tortillas are dipped in house enchilada sauce and include cheese, cilantro, onion, salsa verde, guacamole and birria, a rich broth for dipping.
Breakfast is served all day in combo plates with a range of protein choices and as burritos with egg and cheese plus American standard ham or sausage to Mexican chorizo or machaca, plus hash browns. The balance of the menu is vast and happily anticipated. There are six types of tortas, tostados and quesadillas, hard tacos, a dozen burrito and soft taco choices, seafood, such as the ceviche tostado, and soups with menudo offered daily.
From the combination plates, served with rice and beans, the grilled steak fajitas are most popular. The gorditas, with filling choices of carnitas or chicarron to al pastor or tripa to polla or shrimp, utilize house made batter, which is hard to find, Brenda suggested.
Located in a strip mall with easy parking, Los Alteños is a simple dining strategy with ordering at the counter to be served by friendly staff. There is ample seating around taupe wood tables with the dining space divided by a long, elevated bar with chairs. Framed prints in Mexican design line the walls, and outside, patio shade is available.
The crowd is heavily local from NAU students to construction crews and passersby. The business caters weddings and other church or family events. Setting up a taco stand and salsa bar is straightforward and full of choice, while a grill cart for steak fajita platters offers another delicious, desirable option.
With such an array of authentic and fresh menu items, no one ever leaves hungry from Los Alteños Restaurant. But it is more than that. “At Christmas, firefighters and police eat for free as way of saying, ‘Thank you.’” Tamales made in house are available then. And Brenda added, “Anyone in need will be fed. We believe, whatever you give out, you will get back.” AZDailySun