AZ Daily Sun, Mountain Living Section—November 27, 2024
Written by Gail G. Collins
What is so English about toffee? While sweet treats abound in Britain, none is as prevalent as toothsome toffee. Candy, in general, came to prominence there with the abundance of sugar from its colonized Caribbean islands in the late 1800s, and the experimentation began.
Toffee is created by caramelizing (or inverting) sugar with butter and pouring it out to harden. Its popularity grew due to its simple list of ingredients and flawless balance of delectable sweet and buttery break—or as some said, “toff,” suggesting the name. Key to its production is the careful heating and cooling of sugar, butter, sometimes adding vanilla and salt, and from the early 1900s, almonds. This final evolution formed toffee’s traditional crunchy texture and buttery flavor, branding it as wholly English.
Such amorphous and humble anonymity also pervades the best toffee available in Flagstaff—Queen Mum’s Royal English Toffee, whose purveyor prefers a low profile. “My mother made toffee for years and years, and I learned from her,” said the toffee expert. “She would make it and take to the veteran’s hospital in Grand Junction, Colorado, where she volunteered.” The mother had an Irish background, and the daughter always helped when she was around, especially when pouring out enormous pots of hot toffee to cool even at 97 years of age.
Word of mouth brought customers from points around the country, such as a lady in California, who has bought 30 pounds from the mother for 20 years. She uses them in gift baskets, whose clients teasingly threaten to quit if the toffee isn’t in there at Christmas.
In Colorado, Enstrom’s brought awareness to English almond toffee with the tagline, “made with magic; disappears like magic,” and Mom competed for sales from her kitchen. “Their price is dear, and it’s not as good as mine, commercialized production with stingy amounts of almonds,” the daughter remembered her saying.
Mom moved to Arizona and died shortly after in 2010, and the daughter took on her customer list, copying her mother’s manufacturing and distribution chain. “I would make the toffee and take it to work to sell or trade with a friend, who made tamales.” Later, her adult children would take it to their job sites for sale.
Read more: Matters of Taste: Queen Mum’s Royal English ToffeeDuring cooking, the ideal timing is revealed in the pop, according to the pro. It’s a messy and rather precarious craft as hot sugar boils and nuts pop with inevitable spatters. “It’s important to know the temperature of it all or the butter will separate, and you must keep stirring once it’s added. A small signal it’s nearly ready is the toffee color and the consistency, which starts thick, and then, thins as it finishes,” she advised. “When it’s nearly done, the nuts pop.”
Queen Mum’s Royal English Toffee maker is a purest, shunning the notion of cashews or pecans or using them only for topping. “It’s not authentic, not right and doesn’t have the same flavor profile without almonds added to the toffee,” she insisted. Ghirardelli chocolate is spread over the toffee in the final stage.
Humidity can affect the outcome of toffee making. During a monsoon, the toffee will draw moisture and become sticky. For this reason, Queen Mum’s boxes are vacuum-sealed to preserve the quality and can be frozen for up to four years and remain fresh for six months in the refrigerator.
The point of sale for Queen Mum’s Royal English Toffee is the Butler Mobil gas station, owned by relatives Curtis and Michelle Gregory. The couple bought the station in 2020, remodeling it in time for Christmas. Since then, winning public votes have awarded them for best liquor, beer and convenience store.
“Our aim is to be different, to try hard to bring in local products, like Pie Guy’s pies, Sam Murray the Bear Guy’s carvings, Arizona beer, spirits and more,” Michelle said. “We try to feature Flagstaff and keep the money here in town.” The couple is present in the shop daily, noticing clients bond over products, like pies and toffee. “Loyalty is hard to find and means everything to us.”
That seems to be the family way. The second generation toffee maker has shared her recipe and tips with the family, but shaking a finger, has threatened them not to share the knowledge. “We are preserving the legacy for the next generation of candy makers,” she said. AZDailySun