AZ Daily Sun, Mountain Living Section, October 2024
Written by Gail G. Collins
Our relationship with food is complex, and too often, it becomes a moral dilemma, involving good foods and bad foods. But can’t eating be more neutral? Put directly, why can’t that drive provide pleasure, and in turn, satisfaction? Our basic survival is dependent upon it. When a craving occurs, no substitutions will sway us—only that thing will do. But where to turn to satisfy that craving?
Hankerin’ opened in August 2021 to curb a craving. “The theme—the name of the place—is a menu full of cravings,” said owner Chas Townsend. “It’s what I like to eat when going out.” The green Chile chili burger is a perfect example. Townsend fell for a similar burger on a trip to Durango, so it had to be on the menu. He made regular trips to Cameron for the fry bread tacos, so the native taco, a Northern Arizona must, piles fluffy fry bread with house chili, lettuce, tomato, onion, cheddar cheese, green chilies and sour cream. It’s a big seller. “These are things I crave. The elote is for my wife.” The Mexican street corn fave comes on a stick with mayo, cotija cheese, butter and a special chili powder blend.
Townsend married into a Hispanic family and connected with them in the kitchen. Growing up at the hospitality-oriented Grand Canyon, he was continually involved in food service. “No matter the circumstances, I ended up cooking, especially for family.” Now, his boys, Benny and Chris, help out at Hankerin’ as does wife Mely.
According to Townsend, the carne asada fries are easily the most popular item. “Interestingly, it was the last thing I added and at our customers’ insistence, but they are not far off from chili fries, and I love those.” The fries are covered in beef, avocado and roasted red pepper salsa, cotija cheese, onions tomatoes.
The street tacos have a strong following with college students. Townsend tells the story of a regular, who began working his way through every salsa combination Hankerin’ offers to satisfy his taco craving. It took weeks. His buddy was a burger guy, and the determined taco man would give his friend the side-eye, secretly desiring the bread and meat, but sure he would regret not ordering the tacos—a quandary. Townsend took his pain to heart and shaped the creamy, shredded chicken into a patty and seared it, adding the street taco toppings—cheddar, lettuce, tomato, house made avocado salsa and chipotle mayo—a tedious task, but the taco-lover was satisfied. But he talked to friends about it, and the requests came in. Townsend streamlined the process for the cooks, and a Southwest chicken cheese burger joined the menu.
Read more: Matters of Taste: Hankerin’“I owe my success to my regulars,” he said. “They are the base of my business.” Located close to Northern Arizona University’s campus, Hankerin’ is settled within a neighborhood with no traffic to draw attention. In his first week of business, the only other commercial shop was going out of business. “The neighbors in these houses are my business. I take them seriously—it’s what motivates me.” There is little tourist trade, but there are sorority girls, who are friends and show up midmorning in their pajamas.
Hankerin’ doesn’t advertise or pursue catering gigs, but if approached…like when a food truck failed to come through for a wedding, and they needed 50 cheeseburgers quickly, he said, “I will make it work if I can; I will try.”
A secret to Townsend’s success is, “No one is open as late as I am. It’s a point of pride because it’s hard to do.” And for this effort, Hankerin’ won Best of Flagstaff’s Late Night Bites.
Hankerin’ operates like a food truck with a limited footprint, staff and offerings, yet it still participates in Greek life fundraising percentage nights and other community projects. Plans may yield a truck to service catering and events.
“I don’t prioritize being unique, but in doing it right,” he explained. “I don’t want to hear, ‘That’s interesting;’ I want to hear, ‘That’s the best street taco or burger I’ve ever eaten.’” The tri-tip is trimmed and seasoned personally, while the burgers are weighed and patted out. “It’s important to have my hands on it.”
Townsend has experimented with unique in his chicharachos, fried pork rinds smothered in carne asada with the usual creative toppings, plus avocado salsa and Valentina hot sauce. The item doesn’t sell as much as he thinks it deserves because it is an unknown quantity. “We are packed here late at night, or people are ordering online—the menu has got to sell the items. We don’t have the staff to explain things. Our customer experience here is: You know what you’re getting.” And what you’re getting is the pleasure of satisfying your craving. AZDailySun