Written by Gail Collins
When you put your heart and soul into something, it becomes more than a business. To Tony Martinez, his restaurant became his love. Wife Lisa smiled and said simply, “Mamma Luisa’s was his pride and passion.” After a good night, Tony might say of their maturing business, “‘She’s so beautiful—let’s buy her a gift,’” Lisa mused.
The man in the double-breasted chef’s jacket with a toque smashed over a bush of curls died his unexpectedly in June. “Honoring Tony and continuing his legacy in operating the restaurant is important,” Lisa said, her voice catching. “The community support, sharing memories and celebrating Tony, has been inspiring.”
Tony had presided over the kitchen since 1984. The original owner, Ernesto, built his menu on his Italian mother Luisa’s cooking, and Tony employed the same craft. There are no microwaves, food warmers or vats of sauce, other than the long-simmered spaghetti standard used in a variety of ways. All dishes are made fresh to order, like the renowned stracciatella, a Roman egg-drop soup, and the bread is baked daily.
The guest book contains a long list of regulars known by their first names. “We’ve seen people get engaged, have children, and grow families of their own,” Lisa said. Day-trippers and annual trekkers on cross-country ventures plan a Flagstaff stop to dine. The experienced wait staff has logged nearly a decade on the floor and includes extended family. The kitchen crew apprenticed under Tony and carries his legacy forward.
Continue reading “LEGACY restaurant preserves its Italian tradition”
August 2013
When Tom and Amanda Wilson bought Pasto Cucina Italiana in 2007, they employed a vision of “Old World flavors with a modern flourish.” They achieved that goal in the urban, glass-fronted store on Aspen as wells as with their crossover cuisine. Architectural amenities, like the copper ceiling, exposed brick, hardwood floors and wrought iron, give an Italian feel to a meal eaten at a window table within view of our own historic piazza—Heritage Square. And Pasto boosted the palate presentation with traditional fare that channels a contemporary vibe.