AZ Daily Sun, Mountain Living Section, October 2023
Written by Gail G. Collins
Synergy—the idea that the whole is bigger than the sum of its parts—was pondered by Aristotle, but for some ambitious restaurateurs, the method has been forged as hospitality. More specifically, wait staff, called “hospitalians” by Bobby Stuckey of Frasca Food and Wine, act as vital, interventionists conveying more than Italian food and wine. As the first Colorado restaurant to earn a Michelin star, his advice is worth considering.
According to Stuckey, who has ties to NAU, a perfect meal is about more than checking the boxes; it hinges on engaging guests, raising the bar and delivering more. Basically, he reasoning goes: Why can’t the care and attention we show to family on Thanksgiving continue throughout the year? He believes if such a notion was employed broadly across industries, it could change the world.
Frasca Hospitality Group also oversees Tavernetta, where Nick Williams, chief operations officer for THAT Place Projects, dined a few years ago. “It made such an impression on us,” he said. “Stuckey is a behemoth in the industry, trying something different. Their front of the house experience says, ‘Let me take care of you—it enriches my life.’”
This was the inspiration for Teatro Italian Food & Wine, located in the former Criollo space. A demographic survey pointed to Italian, and a desire to emulate Frasca’s curated affair drove the details. The building’s history, as Flagstaff’s first desegregated theater, prompted the name and some dramatic presentation.
Teatro concentrates on quality and an enhanced connection between guests and server. “We’re known for quality with our flagship, Tinderbox, and focused on an upscale experience,” Williams said. “The menu is Northern Italian-centric, but not tied to that with lamb, seafood, heavy aspects and hearty dishes.”
Read more: Matters of Taste: Teatro Italian Food & Wine celebrates one year of style and synergyThe chef is Russian-born and globally seasoned. As a Ukrainian veteran, Art Bugdasaryan attended an Italian cooking school and worked under French-born Alain Ducasse before moving his family to Flagstaff to showcase his cuisine. The dishes are designed to evoke nostalgia, warmth and comfort when shared at the table.
Popular dishes begin with a salad comprised of creamy, imported burratina cheese, speck, fresh melon, arugula, sundried tomato and pesto. The gnocchi, a potato dumpling, is mixed with grana padano, gorgonzola perfumato and stracchino cream, and tableside, fried sage is crumbled and stirred in.
Order Filetto alla Griglia, and a 9.5-ounce, house-butchered filet mignon, served with purple potato pureé, caramelized onion and thick gravy of thyme demi arrives under a cloche. It is staged, smoke wafting forth. At Teatro, they imply, it’s showtime.
Tiramisu blends tradition and creativity, arriving in a caviar tin, dotted with dark chocolate espresso pearls. “It’s over the top—a trickery of the senses—and a great cap at the end of the night,” said Williams.
Wine is forefront, and a rack of choices greet guests at the door in a categorized collection,which cruises across Italy by region. “It’s huge, unique and food-friendly,” he said. “It goes over incredibly, and in this high-end restaurant, you’re going to love the wine.” Indeed, Teatro earned a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in 2023.
There is no cocktail menu, but anything goes. Order a classic or a twist on one. “We make it a conversation with guests, and often, it becomes personal, but we nail it,” Williams said. He suggests the coffee and cigarettes cocktail, made with cognac, coffee liquor and chocolate espresso beans, served smoking, like vanilla pipe tobacco.
Teatro shines for events and catering for weddings and more. Italian food is conducive to travel, reheating and melding flavors. Lunches are easy-going with a full-service, business angle.
Every detail is beautifully thoughtful. Teatro’s ambience intimates al fresco glamor in trellis and greenery accents; glittering chandeliers and white, twinkling trees; cream marble and charcoal tile; pale wood and a coffered ceiling. The table is set with Riedel wine glasses, Villeroy & Boch china, gold flatware and a domed central light to cloak diners.
Williams finds the synergistic effect, “encourages sharing between guests to bring back memories of travel, of experiences—sparkling stories.”
How does Teatro pull it off? “Warm and welcoming conversations—connecting on so many levels and guiding them through an amazing experience—is paramount,” said Williams. “It’s curated theater with no peeking behind the curtain.”
That requires elite staffing. Teatro sees their young staff as a breath of fresh air. Approaching work with pride in spic and span, starched uniforms adds to the overall performance.
Join Teatro in celebrating their first anniversary on October 28 with a prix fixe menu featuring butter-aged ribeye and bubbly prosecco. AZDSun