AZ Daily Sun, Mountain Living Section, February 2024
Written by Gail G. Collins
Despite the convenience of one-stop shopping in French hyper grocers, locals have turned back to neighborhood markets. Such markets revitalize areas, and 100 new ones are born each year. In fact, when last surveyed in 2020, half of the French population remains loyal to their community market.
Traditional markets are not a rural phenomenon; they are just as common in urban settings across districts and regions. They are places to catch up with friends or socialize over a cup of coffee. That little market is a local link in the supply chain from produce grower or artisan baker to consumer, who prefers homegrown goods. Small, neighborhood markets provide the vital opportunity to eat wholesome foods, boost the area’s economy and control our diets with some happy chat thrown in.
This was the vision of Sam Greenhalgh with his business partner and mother, Natasha, who created Petit Marche. But what is the French connection? Sam is a chef, classically trained in French cuisine.
“I am enamored by it—the simplicity and cleanliness of it,” he enthused. “It’s the best way to eat, using quality ingredients and letting them shine.”
Petit Marche is an outgrowth of their earlier French venture Forêt FLG, for which Sam has been nominated for a James Beard Award as Best Chef, Southwest. The awards will be presented in Chicago in June.
Read more: Matters of Taste: Petit Marché brings the charm of France to Flag“Fortunately, we have been very busy at Forêt—at capacity—looking for an outlet to make things quicker, easier,” Sam said. “We understand people don’t have the time to wait 20-25 minutes to grab a cup of coffee.” Petit Marche was the answer. “We are a great addition for hotel and B & B guests to come in and grab a couple of things.” Industry service staff also relies on the shop’s flexibility to offer grab-and-go fresh meals.
Adjacent to the heart of downtown on Aspen Avenue, stairs enter Petit Marche centrally with coffee and meal service to one side and a grocery to the other. The snug coffee space proffers bakery items, like baguettes, bagels, croissants and other pastries, as well as quick pick-ups, like house made lemon-honey ricotta, pimento cheese and daily soups. The grocery side trades in frozen ready meal goods—pasta, soups, ice cream and bacon—plus produce and provisions, like Northern California Bianco DiNapoli tomatoes, local honey and Cutino sauces from Phoenix. The shop carries a variety of drinks and focuses on natural Arizona wines, like Cactus Cru, the state’s first organic, sustainably-produced wine made from native vineyards, and Los Milics in Elgin. As for staples, try Hayden Mills flours, devoted to stone-milling heritage and ancient grains for their improved taste.
“The sky is the limit, even though the space is tiny,” Sam said. “The baguettes and Montreal-style bagels are made daily and consistently sell out.” According to Sam, this style bagel is thinner, airier and crispier. Get there early or pay ahead by phone to reserve your fresh bread.
The shop opened in August and quickly lined up holiday pre-orders of scratch recipes, which featured bourbon pecan pie, beef Bourgogne pie and gift baskets of niche goodies.
“Sam has a never-ending, creative drive,” Natasha said. “All the bread is naturally leavened.” To accompany that, fresh butter is churned from a locally-sourced cream and kefir culture.
Pastry options also include chocolate croissants, gluten-free brownies, ham and butter sandwiches that sell out early. There are three other popular choices. The brekkie is stuffed with sausage, eggs, salsa and cream cheese. The loaded lox holds cold, smoked Norwegian salmon, shaved red onion, dill, capers, Graza olive oil and whipped cream cheese. The deli stacks turkey with heirloom tomatoes, English cukes, spinach, red onion, herbs, oil and vinegar.
The coffee program is powered by an enormous La Marzocco espresso machine, handmade in Florence, Italy, and serving beans from Portland’s Rose Line in a full line of espresso drinks. A complementary tea and matcha line is on offer as well.
It’s lovely to have another bit of France in our town, where we can make a quick stop to shop for the day’s needs, grab a nourishing sandwich on the way to work or enjoy a coffee and pastry with a friend. As many customers have noted as they walk out of Petit Marche, fresh baguette in hand slathered in house made butter, “It feels like I’m in Paris.” And that’s just the point. AZDSun