Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living Magazine, September 2017
Written by Gail Collins
Change is the only constant in this world, and it certainly applies to a competitive restaurant scene. The need to stay in tune with patrons, innovation, global influences and ownership transitions mean change is often on the menu in one way or another. Keeping a restaurant vibrant is key, presenting opportunities for a restaurant revamp. As Americans spent nearly $750 billion on eating out in 2015, slicing into that pie is worth the effort for restaurateurs.
Franchise eateries periodically update, such as the recent facelifts on Olive Garden and MacDonald’s. But what about an independent restaurant that has been a successful icon in town? Flagstaff locals have celebrated weddings and hallmark anniversaries and other special occasions at The Cottage Place Restaurant for more than twenty years, so its transition to The Cottage took considerable care.
“We had many conversations with previous owners Frank and Nancy Branham about carrying on the legacy of great service,” said new owner and chef Scott Heinonen. “The Cottage can continue to be a special event place, while also serving as a fine, comfortable dining spot for people to visit any Friday night.”
His goal was to retain the charm and impeccable service, while infusing Heinonen’s reputation for flair and fun. For example, the chairs were repainted and reupholstered, while the sign was repurposed, featuring a traditional rooster clutching a wine glass. The 1910 bungalow first became a French restaurant in the 80’s, and Branham’s interpretation of French cuisine came a decade later. Now, Heinonen imparts his style, in a concise, evolving menu of French standards with updated taste trends.
He has a 30-year track record of success across the Southwest, Pacific northwest and locally, as opening chef at Cuveé 928 and previous owner and chef of Tinderbox. General Manager Olivia Herman, who has worked with Heinonen in the past, leads a solid team.
The Cottage opened in late April, updated in a classic blue and white scheme, eclectic china on the walls, a Paris street map mural, touches of silver throughout and rough butcher blocks on the mantel. It has the feel of a village bistro maison, similar to those I found while cycling along the Nivernais Canal.
The menu kicks off with a charcuterie plate, or the quintessential white linen picnic spread. A variety of pates—from chicken and duck to pork confit with apricot and smoked salmon to pork rillettes—compliment mature cheeses, house made pickles and crème fraiche. Petite twist rolls offer ready sampling. Try a glass of pinot blanc alongside for a bit of effervescent, subtle fruit.
For an elegant entrée, order the sirloin tip steak au poivre and frites. The peppercorn charred crust on the tender, 6-ounce steak is the best of the roast, served with the creamy bite of Roquefort butter, balsamic blackberries and earthy beets. Skin-on, airy fries in a silver bucket add a stylish country touch. The milk and honey-brined côte de porc makes the most of a chop, served with crème fraiche polenta and ripe, summer peaches.
The pastry chef conjures timeless sweets, such as chocolate gateau, a flourless cake that is dense and intense. Bittersweet chocolate, butter and eggs create a slice of truffle, topped with espresso mousse and plated in a pool of white chocolate ganache. Sipping a cognac or a cordial après closes out a memorable experience.
Passing by and wondering, should you stop in? The patio invites a spontaneous decision to try a glass of wine from the exclusively French list with hors d’oevres in a relaxed atmosphere. First Fridays’ $15 special package of wine and small plates keeps it simple and beautiful—classically French.
Like the subtle name change, The Cottage continues the reinvention of an icon, seeking to build on the best aspects while keeping it fresh with French farmhouse flavors and ambience. NAMLM
Learn more at www.thecottageflagstaff.com