November 2014
We often hear the cliché: There is strength in diversity. But what does that mean? When it comes to heritage farms, it can be the difference between life and death. In 1845, the Irish potato crop suffered blight. The bulk of farmers had planted only one type of potato, and over six years, a million people starved and another million left Ireland. This is the danger of industrial agriculture, which utilizes few breeds or crops to maximize output under specific conditions. Here is the bottom line on factory farming: 60 percent of beef is Angus, Hereford and Simmental breeds; 75 percent of pork comes from three breeds; and four breeds of sheep make up 60 percent of the market with a whopping 40 percent of that number as Suffolk. In the last 15 years, 200 breeds of animals have become extinct worldwide. Genetic diversity is essential to a healthy food supply to withstand harsh conditions and unforeseen circumstances.
While there is no official certification for heritage animals, they must possess unique genetic traits and be raised locally, sustainably and organically. Heritage animals have developed inherent strengths and qualities, based on their locales, so they look, act and taste differently. This is equally true for game, such as venison, rabbit, wild turkey, quail and boar. Their free-range habits and geography create distinctive flavors, which are valued by hunters and diners alike.
Flagstaff proved its enthusiasm, welcoming its first proper butcher on the Southside—Proper Meats + Provisions. The neighborhood meat shop and casual eatery opened in a historic building to a bonanza crowd. As with Paul Moir’s restaurants—Brix and Criollo in Flagstaff and Proper in Tucson—his corner butcher sources from local ranches. Executive Chef David Smith said, “We’ve always worked with local farmers, but the logistics can be hard for them, so we’ve taken over that process to offer whole animal butchering to our restaurants and the public.”
The meat case often holds three breeds of rib eye, side-by-side, in traditional portions and larger haunches, cut to order. The butcher can then discuss the differences in marbling, size and flavor profiles to best meet the client’s need. When it comes to pork, Proper currently stocks three breeds: Red Wattle with dark, lean, tender meat; Berkshire, a first class, flavorful, dark pig; and succulent Duroc. The shop’s “Obscure Board” is aptly named. It recently advertised tallow, lard and dog bones, yet will expand to include heart, kidney and tongue. These will find a place on the charcuterie board and lingua tacos in Moir’s downtown eateries in addition to roasts and more from the animals hanging in the walk-in. The object is to utilize the whole animal. Proper also has quick sandwich options, featuring their heritage meats.
A few doors down, owner chef Scott Heinonen has served up game since Tinderbox opened. “People are more adventurous and are willing to put things in the chef’s hands,” said Heinonen. “We don’t do chicken, but we do duck livers on the charcuterie board and as pâté.” The duck duo is popular, too, placing leg confit alongside pan-fried airline breast—that’s with the bone in. The game-centric menu is exciting for the kitchen and the customers. “We have rabid fans, who look for new items with more varied proteins.”
Tinderbox offers their classic venison on blue cheese grits and plates of smoked lamb with sweet potato and roasted root vegetable hash. When it comes to veal sweetbreads, the versatile meat can come poached or dredged in flour, panko-coated and pan-fried. Stuffed pigs feet are on the radar for fall, and there is always something in the smoker, like the brined, pepper-crusted pork belly pastrami shaved off in delectable ribbons.
Pasto Cucina Italiana showcases game each fall. The Heritage Square icon will offer roasted quail with Marsala gravy and herbed dressing, yam gratin, spaghetti squash, pecans and cranberries for a feast. Go wild with boar ribs from feral Texas hogs, favoring a rustic, nutty edge and honeyed with orange glaze, plus fennel slaw and sweet potato fries. For an American perspective, try the bison burger with buffalo sauce, of course, gorgonzola and a side of fries.
Serving heritage and game meats isn’t the cheapest option for purveyors, but as David Smith said, “Our message is clear: Local, local, local. There is accountability for food that originates and stays in the community. It is harder to do, but it is the best way for everyone concerned.” NAMLM
Visit www.propermeats.com