Northern AZ’s Mountain Living Magazine – Page 5

Holiday Favorite

Tradition reigns supreme at Little America Hotel

Written by Gail Collins

At the flick of a switch, one million lights flash and glow against fir branches, reflected in the glistening snow. This elicits a collective whoop of joy. It is the official kick off to the Christmas season at Little America in Flagstaff where holiday happiness reigns supreme.

At Christmas, we embrace the simple delights. From glittering lights to sweet smells from the oven, a child’s eye offers the gladdest view. Little America caters to the child in all of us a this time of year.

Beyond decorations and lights, guests can be whisked 3,794 miles to the North Pole to meet Santa and his elves. Riding a trolley through a magic portal, they are transported to the busy enterprise of toy-making and reindeer training. There is private time with bearded man himself to make special requests plus a photo and a chance to help the elves before sipping hot cocoa by a roaring fire. This is the North Pole Experience.

Since 2009, thousands of families have visited Santa this way each year. Little America brought the North Pole Experience to Flagstaff in 2012. The all-inclusive, 90-minute adventure is a multi-generational memory maker—a Norman Rockwell moment we can all live.

Holiday customs have long been the backbone of Little America, and their legacy diners crowd family tables. “We harken back to home and everything wonderful,” said food and beverage manager Sally Maroney. But it’s done in a bigger way, like the giant, hand-decorated, yard-square gingerbread house.

In 2016, Silver Pine Restaurant received an upgrade. Improvements on the hotel are due to be completed in summer 2018. The result of merging the previous coffee shop with separate fine dining, Silver Pine delivers casual elegance. Colors of sky and stone are echoed in texture like pale wood and denim booths. A vaulted roofline with soaring glass floods the room with light, and during warm weather, the long-overdue patio carries the dining into the garden. Black and white photographs evoke the area’s history.

Tradition is a sacred thing, and General Manager Fred Reese acknowledged this when the restaurant revamp extended to the menu. “It was anarchy, and we quickly reinstated 85% of the diners’ beloved dishes,” said Reese, “like the decades-old roll recipe—the perfect accompaniment to any meal.”

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Festive & Fresh

Arizona foods elevate the holiday table

Written by Gail Collins

As the golden light of autumn waned, the brisk afternoon warmed with the happy chatter of guests. Pecks on the cheek, lingering hugs and the joyous anticipation of time with loved ones set the stage for a holiday gathering. The cook mopped a brow with a dish towel, inhaled the stuffing’s fall fragrance and smiled. Nothing can top the celebratory combination of glorious food, home and company. In fact, it is the melding of elements, both festive and familiar, that creates the greatest happiness.

Gatherings can feel stressful, but serving specialty foods and a showcase bird is worth the planning and preparation. Even professionals, like Logan Webber, executive chef at Brix, utter colorful language when the top of the stuffing chars instead of browns, so relax, home cooks—it’s all part of the process.

Sustainable Serving

When it comes to choosing quality ingredients, local is always better. Even a massive bison creates a smaller carbon footprint when the animal is grazed, processed and eaten regionally. Sustainable farming and ranching guard future land use for all. Environmental preservation—avoiding toxic substances or depleting natural resources—builds an ongoing ecological balance. Sustainable practices consider animal welfare, protect public health and support vibrant communities. The good news is that increasing demand for sustainable living is fueling a robust market of products and producers.

The Colorado Plateau offers a wider variety of proteins and produce than might be expected for a semi- arid land. Some of the sources readily available to Northern Arizona include: McClendon’s Select, Roots Micro Farm, Black Mesa Ranch, Two Wash Ranch, and of course, the local farmers market. Three generations at McClendon’s Select have cultivated nearly 100 acres of certified, organic farmland in Peoria and Goodyear. Roots is an urban farm in Flagstaff supplying colorful micro-greens—vegetables, herbs and flowers—to local restaurants. Black Mesa Ranch boasts the “flavor of the White Mountains” with farmstead artisan cheeses crafted from registered Nubian goats. Two Wash Ranch, a five-acre poultry farm, raises chickens, ducks, geese and pea fowl in a cage-free environment. For the easiest downtown shopping however, visit Proper Meats + Provisions, an abundant source of regional, quality fresh and jarred items.

“There are many reasons to use sustainable ingredients,” Chef Webber said. “It’s better for the environment, but there is also the chance to talk to the people, who make the food, about their practices and upcoming farm produce. This offers the chance to change up the menu with seasonal items.” Farmers markets are ideal for this, and he also chats with other chefs, who can help with sourcing. Webber, who entice diners with the unique root vegetables in autumn, added, “Local goods taste so much better and have a longer shelf life that extends recipe opportunities.”

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Gathering Place Up the Creek Bistro Wine Bar offers effortless entertaining in a creekside setting

Up the Creek Bistro Wine Bar offers effortless entertaining in a creekside setting

Written by Gail Collins

The best tip for hosting happy holiday gatherings is planning. Though a spontaneous event suggests an air of que sera sera, the anxious reality is we will lie awake plotting anyway. Skip the bad dreams and start a checklist. Whether it’s a corporate or family affair, deciding the details early will increase joy and attendance. It also creates control.

Things to consider: Is there a theme? Who is on the guest list—employees or adults only or family fun? When is it best to gather the crowd—day, evening, weekend? How about games or entertainment—live music or quiet carols? What is the budget—be honest? Where is the proper venue—home, office or restaurant? The food—should it be home-cooked or catered? Use the answers to build a list that covers all of the activities from several weeks out to greeting the guests. Then, plot them on the calendar. Add items as needs arise, like fresh batteries for the camera or renting extra chairs. On the day, stay upbeat, elevate your guests, and enjoy the party.

As more people eat out on an almost daily basis, partying at a restaurant could be the seamless solution to most hosting duties. Up the Creek Bistro Wine Bar in Cornville, with fine dining in a rustic space perched above the creek, has served brides and grooms or statesmen, like Sen. John McCain, who regularly rents out the 100-guest space for soirees. A party of 10 or 50 can also choose from the same French-inspired European and American dishes.

Owners Mario Aguilar, Michelle Mebine and chef-owner Jim O’Meally opened the revamped space last fall, and despite an off-the-beaten-path location, its popularity has grown. Fiery leaves and a clear stream make an especially inviting environment in autumn. The split-level building’s low-beamed ceilings with stone fireplaces and lanterns project a cozy, lodge feel.

At Thanksgiving last year, the restaurant presented a buffet with 12 roasted turkeys from a Page Springs farm. The menu featured unique and traditional dishes homemade from fresh ingredients: maple-brined pork roast, braised red cabbage, sweet potato and green bean casseroles, roasted Brussel sprouts, ginger-honey glazed carrots, three kinds of stuffing and gravy, plus pumpkin and buttermilk pies.

“People are our guests and feel relaxed here,” O’Meally said, “Often over dinner, tables meet one another, talk, share wine and become friends.”

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Spirit of Sonora

Casa Duarte honors tradition with authentic flavors

Written by Gail Collins

Dia de los Muertos, Mexico’s celebration of the dead, sounds a lot like Halloween, but there are no pumpkins or witches—skeletons rule the day. The departed souls of young and old return to eat, drink and be merry, as they had done in life. Falling on the first two days of November –All Saints’ and All Souls’ Days— the annual holiday blends the traditional beliefs of the indigenous peoples with Catholic feasts. Parades and parties shut down cities and feature macabre skulls in arts and treats, like pan de muerto, a rich coffee cake with meringue decorations resembling bones.

Despite the skeletons, Dia de los Muertos focuses more on life than death and its natural continuum. Wealthier people build an altar to their loved ones in their home, but most people decorate gravestones with marigolds and personal items. Families gather in the graveyard in the evening to wait for and pay respect to the deceased. Candles are lit, incense is burned and prayers are intoned. During the vigil, the family hosts a festive picnic, telling stories about the departed and enjoying their favorite foods and drink.

MartAnne’s Burrito Palace has long showcased Day of the Dead themed paintings by Flagstaff resident and artist Emma Gardener. MartAnne’s, previously owned by Anna Martinez, as well as Casa Duarte are now both owned and managed by Anna’s daughter, Tina, and her husband, Gonzalo Duarte. The Mexican café above downtown serves MartAnne’s famous breakfast menu, including chilaquiles—a piled plate of leftover corn tortillas, sauce, eggs and more.

“We’d already created the perfect menu there, so we kept it and added on,” Tina said.

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CLASSIC REVAMP

The Cottage keeps it French and fresh

Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living Magazine, September 2017
Written by Gail Collins

Change is the only constant in this world, and it certainly applies to a competitive restaurant scene. The need to stay in tune with patrons, innovation, global influences and ownership transitions mean change is often on the menu in one way or another. Keeping a restaurant vibrant is key, presenting opportunities for a restaurant revamp. As Americans spent nearly $750 billion on eating out in 2015, slicing into that pie is worth the effort for restaurateurs.

Franchise eateries periodically update, such as the recent facelifts on Olive Garden and MacDonald’s. But what about an independent restaurant that has been a successful icon in town? Flagstaff locals have celebrated weddings and hallmark anniversaries and other special occasions at The Cottage Place Restaurant for more than twenty years, so its transition to The Cottage took considerable care.

“We had many conversations with previous owners Frank and Nancy Branham about carrying on the legacy of great service,” said new owner and chef Scott Heinonen. “The Cottage can continue to be a special event place, while also serving as a fine, comfortable dining spot for people to visit any Friday night.”

His goal was to retain the charm and impeccable service, while infusing Heinonen’s reputation for flair and fun. For example, the chairs were repainted and reupholstered, while the sign was repurposed, featuring a traditional rooster clutching a wine glass. The 1910 bungalow first became a French restaurant in the 80’s, and Branham’s interpretation of French cuisine came a decade later. Now, Heinonen imparts his style, in a concise, evolving menu of French standards with updated taste trends.

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Valley of the Vine

The Business of Grapes from Ground to Glass

Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living Magazine, August 2017

Written by Gail Collins

Sitting in a trattoria in Tuscany, we ordered the local red wine, served in carafes. Such stuff never leaves the country, and it was the perfect complement to the boar stew. Terroir and taste—as local as it gets.

Over several years, the locavore trend has gained momentum growing farmer’s markets, restaurant offerings and Arizona’s Verde Valley Wine Trail. Cultivating its success was a team effort.

Eric Glomski, owner and director of winegrowing for Page Spring Cellars and Arizona Stronghold, has been in the wine business for two decades. He shunned becoming “just another winery in California,” where costs are prohibitive, and he undertook a statewide search of Arizona before calling Cornville home. His criteria for making wine were climate, soil, water supply, population proximity and demographics. The rural spot was ideal for raising a family, too. That was 14 years ago, and Glomski has learned a great deal and taught it to others, who possess the same passion.

“Since 2004, Page Spring Cellars (PSC) has become the father and mother of products personally and for others,” said Glomski, who helped birth Burning Tree, Carlson Creek, Painted Lady, Gallifant Cellars and more. Winemaking expanded in the region, so he moved Arizona Stronghold to a bigger facility to become “a home for start-ups, an incubator” for making contract, custom brands.

Glomski studied the subtleties of the land and helped define the crops, such as French-American hybrids over pinot noir. Educating the public built loyalty, the industry and recognition. PSC earned 90+ points on Wine Spectator’s scale, yet the bestowing of two Jefferson Cups in 2010 by the country’s top officials marked a turning point. “Arizona is not imitating others—we are confident winemakers in the Arizona marketplace and beyond,” Glomski said.

Winning teams comprise dedicated players, who work together. When Casey Rooney, economic development director for the City of Cottonwood, arrived 10 years ago, he recognized the potential for the wine game. “I’m a cog in the development of Cottonwood,” Rooney said. Old town was underutilized and devoid of businesses then. The mission: To bring private business to the table to advise city planning.

In 2008, with other power players, such as police-chief-turned-city-manager Doug Bartosh, the wine industry became the focus. It would act as the driver for tourist dollars. As five-year plans were enacted, ancillary business alliances exploded in old town. “We were a sleeping giant with excitement to grow,” Rooney said. “We still feel the times are supercharged.” Wineries, such as Javelina Leap and Alcantara Vineyards, popped up in the countryside, and a tour of Napa and Sonoma confirmed, “We could do this.” Rooney called it “economic gardening,” growing from within to stay local and smart. Seeking solutions to problems benefitted all entrepreneurs, and in 2014, Cottonwood rebranded as the Heart of Arizona Wine Country.

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Going a Cut Above

Pine Canyon’s Executive Chef Dishes on Cuisine

Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living Magazine, August 2017

Written by Gail Collins

Executive Chef David Lapinski’s first job in the culinary industry seemed unlikely, at the time, to propel him to the celebrated successes of his long career. The high schooler hired on to wash dishes at Mount Holyoke College. On his first day, the cook was sick and promoted him to organize the meal service two hours later. Having noted the young man’s interest in attending culinary school, the cook gave him the menu rundown, and it went off without a hitch. “I’d never cooked for anybody before in my life,” Lapinski said with a chuckle. “I’d only taken a home ec class, but I never washed dishes again.” Within two years, he took on the role of catering manager. Perhaps, moving from the dirty frying pan to the fire galvanized and prepared him for the challenges ahead.

After graduating from Johnson & Wales, Lapinski began a coast-to-coast tour, beginning with Disney World’s Apprentice Program, where he learned classical French cuisine. Nearly two decades later, his resume lists the renowned Commander’s Palace in New Orleans, Sidewalkers in Manhattan, Max’s Restaurant in San Francisco, followed by positions in Virginia, Maine, and Massachusetts before settling in Arizona. Along the way, Lapinski refined his craft and gained further professional training. It earned him accolades, which include: recognition in Gourmet Magazine, Best New Restaurant, second place for Most Creative American Cuisine, Executive Chef Certification, American Culinary Federation’s Chef of the Year plus various gold and silver medals within the association as well as ice carving competition awards.

Despite his management background, Lapinski works the line as necessary and enjoys it. “My tradition is to lead by example, whether it’s a dirty job, like cleaning the grease trap, or managing,” he said. Opening restaurants and menu design are strengths honed to launch The Capital Grille in Scottsdale. Then, building on his club experience, The Estancia Club took him up a rung before heading north to manage the dining at Pine Canyon Clubhouse.

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Primo & Pasta

LA VETTA PS THE ANTE ON DOWNTOWN ITALIAN FARE

Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living Magazine, July 2017

Written by Gail Collins

Without ever having traveled to Tuscany’s hills or any other destination on the boot, many of us consider ourselves aficionados of Italian cuisine. Knowledge of the proper pronunciation of bruschetta (broo-skeh’-tta) or the inauthentic combination of meatballs with spaghetti doesn’t dissuade us. We’re willing to eat and learn. Fortunately, from more than a dozen trips to Italy, I can reassure you that it is not only customary, but necessary, for Italians to feed you well. There are many reasons.

Olive oil pulses through the populations’ veins with the average native consuming 14 joint-lubricating liters per year. Multiple-course meals multiply the ways to savor fresh pasta, seafood or veal, garden produce, focaccia and gelato. Wine flows like the Tiber River into Rome from the world’s number-one producer. Still, village vines are hoarded and pressed into house wine to compliment boar stew in San Gimignano or cassòla in Sardinia. Ah, Italia!

Now, those yearning for fine Italian dining need travel no farther than historic downtown Flagstaff. Ascend Group, who also own Horsemen Lodge and Northern Pines Restaurant, felt the city’s longing for ravioli and glitz, and opened La Vetta Ristorante Italiano on North Leroux in February.

La Vetta shines in snowy, sparkling, stacked stone with glittering lights, glass partitions and contemporary denim and dove-colored S-booths and banquettes. Vibrant impressionist, Italian-inspired canvases pop on the walls and Rat Pack tunes invite diners to indulge. General Manager Kevin Crow, with a fine dining background from Josephine’s Modern American Bistro, employs upscale expectations. “Checking quality regularly and teaching staff has been a busy, positive experience,” he said.

“Vetta” translates as summit or peak in Italian and honors Arizona’s tallest mountains. It also serves as the culinary goal for Executive Chef Dylan Tobin. With a well-logged past in Flagstaff kitchens, Tobin began cooking in a café at 14 years old and advanced to sous-chef at 18 before landing in a commanding position at La Vetta at 23. Aiming for classic, yet inventive cuisine, he wowed owner Steve Alvin at his tasting interview with cioppino, now a standard on the menu. The spicy acidity of the tomato broth, swimming with succulent mussels, clams, cod and shrimp, is balanced by a scoop of creamy parmesan risotto.

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RAISING the ROOF

Outdoor Dining in Downtown Flagstaff Reaches New Heights at Root Public House

Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living, May 2017

Written by Gail Collins

One of life’s simplest joys is eating out, and by that, we mean out of doors. Warm and lovely days encourage us to camp, hike or fish, and inevitably, to gather for a meal. Everything seems bigger in the great outdoors— including our appetites for food and flavors. Gathering for a barbecue or escaping for a picnic provides real health benefits, such as vitamin D, boosted mood and increased activity.

The delights of eating outdoors are timeless. From a trestle table filled with a family feast in the Tuscan countryside to a patio table laid with linen on the Champs Elysees to a rooftop view above it all in downtown Flagstaff, al fresco dining is a pleasure. “We have the designation of being the only rooftop dining in town,” said David Smith, chef/owner and partner with Jeremy Meyer of Root Public House.

Root’s rooftop perch is spacious, nearly doubling the its size, under a bowl of blue. A bank of seating wraps the patio plus plenty of tables for soaking up the rays and the view make it the best summer spot. The San Francisco Peaks hold prominence on the horizon surrounded by historic city sites. The bar is self-contained, providing equivalent drinks service as the main floor with eight to 10 local brews on a dozen taps. Or try the signature cocktail Root Down. It’s vibrant, containing only local ingredients: Desert Rain gin, carrot juice, jalapeno bitters and local IPA foam exuding a citrus fragrance. Although the rooftop tends to drinks and nosh, guest have access to the full food program.

Like the expansive rooftop, Smith and Meyer’s idea to own a fine dining restaurant grew. Raised in Virginia and Arkansas respectively, they channeled their southern backbone for inspiration originally. That blossomed as well with Smith open to the whims of whatever looks good and tastes great on the menu. Meyer summed, “Root Public House pushed our boundaries in good ways—we’re keeping it organic.”

Both had lengthy industry backgrounds. Smith arrived in Flagstaff a decade ago with successes as partner/owner of Brix Restaurant and Wine Bar, before opening Criollo Latin Kitchen and Proper Meats and Provisions. Smith met Meyer, the bar program manager at Criollo, in 2010. Understandably, the team had a proper following when they launched Root in July 2016 with a bang. The partners’ consistent mission provides sustainable, organic and local fare. White paint and steel touches create an understated vibe like the owners’ trademark jeans and tees.

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Kings of SIZZLE

Horsemen Lodge Steaks a Claim on an Iconic Meal

Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living Magazine, April 2017

Written by Gail Collins

Steak. The word brings meat to mind. Not just any beef, but a premium, savored experience. While the term steak defines any fast-cooking cut, most of us wouldn’t be so generous. Taste, tenderness and marbling all play a part in making a steak great.

In general, meat is muscle, so the choicest steaks are sliced from lesser-used muscle areas. The loin or backstrap runs along either side of the spine in long, tender muscles outside the ribs. The tenderloin or filet mignon lies on the inside of the ribs below mid-spine. From these two muscles come four ideal candidates for steaks: ribeye, tenderloin, strip and T-bone. In each of these cuts, fine flecks of fat—called marbling—baste the meat with flavor.

Though diners may have preferences, there are a few classic culinary rules for achieving steak nirvana. First, apply generous amounts of coarse Kosher salt to meat left at room temperature for 30 minutes. Brush with clarified butter or oil to prevent sticking and use a smoking hot grill. This shortens cooking time for more tender beef, adding a flavorful crust. Lastly, after cooking, let the steak rest for a few moments to absorb the pockets of juice. Most consider the ideal steak to be an inch-and-a-half ribeye, served medium rare with a pink, warm middle plus sufficient char.

Steak is an iconic meal, and northeast of Flagstaff—a few miles up U.S. 89—an icon has been serving them for more than four decades. Horsemen Lodge Steakhouse opened in 1975 and quickly became a hangout for Babbitt cowboys working on the CO Bar Ranch. The restaurant name pays homage to the ranch lifestyle in its authentic details—Western art, six-shooters, brands, chaps and spurs—and its cowboy-inspired menu, featuring steak. This has won the rustic outpost the Arizona Daily Sun’s Best of Flagstaff Award for Best Steak for two years running. Kudos to majority owner Steve Alvin for rebuilding Horsemen’s status and presence in the community.

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