STEPPING UP TO THE PLATE

Some of the Best of Our Local Dishes

Written by Gail G. Collins

It’s no secret anymore. Flagstaff’s culinary scene is now the envy of much of Arizona. For a mountain town that still does not top 100,000 people, this place has dozens of independent restaurants achieving a high level of dining in their respective categories. After a few years of basking in the recent lineup of hotspots, we thought we would pause to reflect on a handful of signature dishes by our new dining places and expanded or reinvented eateries with a look across the foodie spectrum.

Craving Crepes at Streetside Saigon

In a nod to the French, the classic banh xeo, a crepe, is revamped with shrimp and shitake, that’s a hit at Streetside Saigon. The rice flour crisp is vivid with turmeric, filled with bean sprouts plus chive and served with a field of lettuce and traditional herbs. Tear off some crepe, tuck it into a lettuce leaf with mint and cilantro, roll it and soak up the lively dip—light, crunchy, healthy and flavorful. Not up for the crepe? Try the banh mi, a Vietnamese sandwich, which boasts French influence in multiple ways. Streetside slathers their softer-than-baguette bun with pate and hose mayo, piles on tender pork meatballs and a layer of livered carrot, daikon and cucumber for a tongue-teasing combination of tastes and textures. streetsidesaigon.com

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A Major ‘Shift’

New Restaurant Bringing New Style to the Dining Scene

Northern Arizona’s Mountain Living Magazine Sept/Oct 2016

Story & Photographs by Gail G. Collins

Recently, a friend identified herself as a “foodie.” She is among well-nourished, burgeoning company. Different from a gourmand, a foodie does not distinguish between elite eating and chasing down a fusion taco truck. Their interests range from indie bistros, novel menus, farmers markets and heirloom products to local sourcing plus much more. Foodies enjoy the thrill of the hunt for new ingredients and value authenticity. They want to learn new techniques and enjoy the challenge. Such rising passions fueled the Food Network, cooking classes, gastronomic travel, gardening and interdisciplinary food studies at more than 30 U.S. universities and colleges. The continuing craze even spawned Foodies! The Musical—a comedy revue on the habits and quirks of the foodie life.

According to Maxwell PR + Engagement, a high concentration of the 79 million Millennials (aged 18-35) take the cake, as far as numbers, and self-identify as focused on food. Boomers rank second despite more disposable cash and time. The young and hungry set cuisine culture trends, organize living around food, eat ethnic or global meals routinely, seek artisan over brand products, align with organic or whole food movements and find self-expression in fare. Overwhelmingly, the culinary paparazzi share all of it on social media. And in 2014, for the first time, money spent dining out surpassed their grocery budget. Simply put, this particular generation prefers the consumption of experiences, and they utilize food as social capital through exploration and education. Such open-mindedness has created a business opportunity for chefs that did not exist previously.

Enter Shift Kitchen and Bar. Their mission:  To SHIFT the mentality of the “normal” dining experience. In the tradition of small plates, the kitchen serves food as it is made with the aim of sharing amongst diners. This new approach, located on San Francisco Street, is the brain child of Dara and Joe Rodger, who possess a few decades of hospitality practice between them. Dara claims “a passion for pastry and a penchant for perfection,” and learned alongside Bobby Stuckey and Marc Vetri. Native Arizonan, Joe, has stood beside Jeremy Fox and Aaron London with a local stint at Tinderbox, which brought the couple from Colorado to Flagstaff again.

“Flag won out. The area had more of a need for the concept of an open center with upscale plating,” Joe said. “We’re ingredient-driven and add imagination to create magic on a plate.” A premium example is the coconut sorbet popsicle with honey meringue chips and sticks, coconut snow, blood orange gel and panna cotta cubes. The islands call through the rich coconut and tangy citrus droplets, teasing with textures in a light, engaging, barely sweet, refreshing climax to a meal. “The garnish is playful, tying in memory in an approachable treat to ‘shift’ people to a new level,” Dara explained. Continue reading “A Major ‘Shift’”

MAYOR GETS THE YOUTH VOTE

Mtn Living MagJuly/August 2016

Written by Gail G. Collins


From candy and cocktails to tin signs and television, the retro revival continues to charm us. Does it provide the comfort of simpler times or simply offer a giddy glimpse of yesteryear? Either way, donning rose-colored glasses—like the late, great Beatle John Lennon—helps us imagine things in a better light. The escape to another place and time seems to relieve us of today’s stress even as it breathes fresh perspective into timeworn classics. Continue reading “MAYOR GETS THE YOUTH VOTE”

A FLAGSTAFF FAVORITE WINE BAR UPGRADES WITH FOOD AND STYLE

MayJune 2016May/June 2016

Written by Gail G. Collins

A good wine bar serves as an introduction to distant lands via the glass. A
sip can conjure images of an indulgent trip, a happy celebration or even initiate a new relationship … with a fine wine. The wine bar’s choice of bottles reflects expertise about varietals, value and va-voom. It recognizes that ambience—or time and place—matter in finding delight in a swallow of sunshine or something berry wonderful. And inevitably, as we linger, we long for an equitable nosh. So, what qualities turn a good wine bar into a great wine bar? Continue reading “A FLAGSTAFF FAVORITE WINE BAR UPGRADES WITH FOOD AND STYLE”

The Art of the Sandwich

Local Restaurants like Toasted Owl Café Upping the Lunch Ante

Mtn Living Mag March/April 2016

Toasted OwlAs children, many of us toted a lunch box that held the vital means for lasting an entire school day: the sandwich. Mom understood our favorites and how the right ratio of mayo to mustard mattered. Later, in midnight raids of the fridge, we mastered the exotic use of leftovers, and on the day after Thanksgiving, we constructed the best sandwich of the year. Slow-roasted meat and gourmet relish buttressed by homemade bread embodies the art of the sandwich.

And art it is to assemble a veritable feast between crusts of bread. Bread is the canvas. It is also where art becomes architecture. Whether one prefers Mediterranean flatbread, rustic ciabatta or a granary wedge, the bread should be substantial, not sloppy—a foundation upon which to build. Spreading a condiment over the bread acts as a barrier to mushiness or adds moisture. Next, cheese imparts strength as well as sharp, nutty or velvety appeal. Meat often showcases the perfect sandwich, and greens cap it off. The British Sandwich Association—now, there’s an organization worth its salt and pepper—actually crowns a champion sandwich maker annually. The ingredients need not be elaborate. A recent winner utilized homemade fruit bread, quality butter, soft Lancashire cheese and an artisan pickle. Continue reading “The Art of the Sandwich”

KISS and TELL

The Concept of “Keep It Simple Sweetheart” on the Upswing with Local Eats and Beyond

Mtn Living Mag January/February 2016

Tourit Home Urban Market 1In a complicated, crowded world, it is easy to see why KISS—or Keep It Simple Sweetheart—is an ascending principle and a darn good way to start off the New Year. After seasonal trimmings, January offers the opportunity to strip away the unnecessary. Many people de-clutter or simplify aspects of their lives. Whether it is cleaning out closets or losing weight, the idea of getting back to basics or KISS, is attractive indeed.

Perhaps, it is the less-is-more seduction, like the practicality of a little, black dress or the sleek lines of a sports car. Either way, simplicity sells. This ideal is also finding tasty traction in the food industry. Clear labeling informs, instead of confuses consumers; clean eating unplugs confounding nutritional concepts and dietary restrictions; and a short list of ingredients makes shopping and kitchen prep more inviting—and probable. Unadorned or natural foods, perceived as authentic and unpretentious, are welcoming. A siren call to simpler times and unsophisticated food with fewer and familiar fixings. Continue reading “KISS and TELL”

The Art of Preservation

Local Grower and Baker Lisa Rayner and the Art of Bread and Canning

Mtn Living Mag November/December 2015

Art of PreservationGrowing up, one of my fondest holiday memories is storming through our front door after school, ripping off snowy clothes and pounding up the stairs to help my mother bake cookies. She was serene in her element, rolling out spicy creations, like zimtsterne or cinnamon stars, reminiscent of her native Black Forest home. Rounds of baking produced myriad treats, which Mom plattered, festooned with ribbons and presented as gifts. Continue reading “The Art of Preservation”

Mariposa Latin Inspired Grill

Mtn Living Mag September/October 2015

Story & Photography by Gail G. Collins

mariposa 999Latin American cuisine—it transcends national borders, yet finds its personality regionally. From South American countries like Argentina, Peru and Chile, north to Mexico, plus the Caribbean countries of Cuba and Puerto Rico, Latin food is more about cooking style and native crops than nationalities. Climate, altitude and history shaped the recipes. This means dishes evolve as one travels from the seashore to inland areas and the mountains. Maize, peppers, beans, ancient grains and Spanish-influenced rice mix with beef, chicken and pork as well as seafood in coastal locales.

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Dining Gets Unchained

Kicks on Route 66 Breaks Conventions and Elevates Dining in Williams

Mtn Living Mag July/August 2015

Regulars who travel Interstate 40 through Williams might have noticed that the highway sign for the decades-long mainstay of Denny’s on the west side of town is no longer there. As it turns out, the chain eatery had transformed into Kicks on Route 66, with such an abundance of fresh, inviting fare as to make it a dining destination. That is the secret ingredient independent restaurants can offer—choice. Often, local sourcing, scratch cooking or seasonal menus can offer customers an adventurous culinary reason to return. Continue reading “Dining Gets Unchained”

Saigon

no longer on the side

Mtn Living Mag May/June 2015

saigonIn the streets of Saigon, now Ho Chi Minh City, one can eat a nourishing meal from a cart at any time of the day or night. And often the meal on offer remains consistent despite the hour. Vietnamese food is full of garden goodies, meat or seafood, bone broth and rice in one form or another. It’s not complex, but the joy is in its simple, recognizable, and raw components. Pho, a noodle soup with unlimited add-ins, and banh mi, a tender, tasty sandwich, are the trendier trademarks, yet there is larger menu to explore among this healthy cuisine. Continue reading “Saigon”